I’m wondering how to get the same effect on on my picture where the dark part is the c carved and stars.
What about a walnut stain, then shellac, then coco brown stain? Or is that too dark to get this effect?
Easiest probably would have been to stain and shellac first, then carve and use the darker stain on the cuts.
Now if you shellac, you would seal the cuts which would keep any other stain or glaze from soaking in.
What if I stain it all now and shellac? Then darker stain? Would I screw it up?
So when you say clear it means polyurethane?
Might do the burnt umber. Also clean it up with water? Like paint it then use a rag with water to wipe away?
You can still achieve that look at this point using paint… like mentioned, Burnt Umber is probably a good choice. Maybe lightly spray a thinned mix of ZINSSER Sanding Sealer ( fancy name for shellac thinned to a 2lb cut )… For something like this, I usually thin it down again 50/50 denatured alcohol. I use PREVAL spayers ( the single use ones - ACE/Home Depot ). spray the entire project 2-3 times… just light coats. Next thing I would do is get the paint over the entire piece with your paint… making sure to really get a good coverage in the relief and lightly wiping off the top surface as you go… the idea is you will coat the entire project in paint but you want to keep it from accumulating on the top. Once the paint is dry you can take it to your bench and use a belt sander to sand away the paint on the top flat surface. ( clean the belt quite often with one of those cleaning sticks )
I see the point of finishing the piece prior to carving but unless you have razor sharp, brand new bits… you’ll end up having to do some sanding and this can cause issues with the finish you put down before cutting.
This is not quite the same style work you have but the idea is the same… all the black lines in this project were V-carved onto my blanks… I then spayed the shellac, then spayed over the blanks with MARSH black stencil ink. Then sanded it all away ( in my case I actually run it through 13" surface planer as it’s 100’s of times faster but you can’t do that with you project due to the shape and size.
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If you have not done any of these procedures before… run a test you can try it out on… sounds like you haven’t really done this and it would be horrible to ruin a piece you spent time on already!
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Thanks guys. Def will run a practice test. I’m gonna go the umber acrylic paint root, but for the stain. What would be close? Golden oak kind?
Wood was hard maple
I had that white side 60 v bit with point and .625 bit for flat
I did flat bottom clearance and think my bit was gummed up a little