Super PID Tachometer Sensor?

Does anyone know the part number for the tachometer sensor that’s sold by Super-PID as part of their kit? I lost my sensor in a move and I want to replace it by ordering the chip, soldering and heat shrinking myself. But I can’t find the manufacturer and part number anywhere. I know you’ve gotta paint your router shaft white on one side, so it’s obviously a laser / optical sensor switching device.

EDIT: I found it in a forum, posted by “Roman,” the developer of the Super PID.

The Super-PID’s opto IR sensor is a Mouser type, OPB609RA. It needs to be connected as pull-down (open-drain) configuration.

It seems that this is an excellent replacement now that the OPB609 is obsolete (I wonder what Super PID is shipping these days…)

I could use that info myself…I cut my wires for my previous CNC, and they’re too short for the new one, so I spliced on some more feet, but as OCD as I am about my machine, I’d really like to replace the wires with solid ones if it is inexpensive and doesn’t involve shipping from Australia. All I know about it is that it’s a reflective IR type.

No, no, no. I appreciate your effort HalfNormal, but that isn’t what I want. Of course I could buy the cable assembly from the website directly, but I want the part’s manufacturer and part number of the three pin device. It’s going to be like… Texas Instruments ICO4409, or something like that. The part number that would allow me to buy just the chip from Digikey or Mouser.

I asked SuperPID in an email a few days ago and they haven’t responded. If I can’t find the part soon I’ll just order it from their site, take it apart, and post the part number here.

Ahh, now I understand.

I edited the original post with the answer.

Thanks for the update! Great information.

I got a response from Super PID!


Attached photo shows the pin labels.

Instructions for making RPM sensor cable;

Ideally, if possible, please use your original munched sensor as a guide.

  1. Cut each leg (approx.) as shown by the green line.

  2. Pre-solder all the sensor legs.

  3. Press two shorter legs together in the middle.

  4. Pre-solder your prepared wiring. Slip narrow heatshrink over RED wire.

  5. Then join the RED wire to leg at the ANGLED EDGE of sensor.

  6. Slip narrow heatshrink over pre-soldered WHITE wire.

  7. Then join the WHITE wire to opposite longer leg.

  8. Join the pre-soldered GROUND wire to the two middle joined ground legs.

  9. Shrink heatshrink to cover the bare metal of the WHITE and RED wires.

  10. Blue Heatshrink to cover everything, shrink and straighten.

Best of luck with it.

Thank you.


In the data that was sent, the 1113 sensor is listed as the new replacement part.

And one last thing, for anyone reading this, please be aware that the new part is practically identical, which means these sensor cables are still not truly shielded as before. Consider building your own if you expect your machine will be a noisy environment.

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Specifically, the two leads that are joined in the middle should not be ground. They are 0 volts, or DC common, and are current carrying. The cable shield should be connected to an actual Earth ground ONLY, and connected at one end of the cable ONLY and left disconnected at the other. Properly used shields do not carry current.

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