A friend requested a box carve with the Tesladyne Logo (from the “Atomic Robo” Comic)
I made a size error on my first attempt (in scrap MDF) making it too big for the work piece. (Also I should have been using a downcut bit)
The second attempt (in scrap pine with resin inlay) came out much better.
(I sill need to get different resin so I won’t have such a air bubble issue)
After I made this a realized that I don’t have to make a square box. I can make the box be the gear shape itself. I am looking forward to trying that out.
seal the wood to help reduce bubbles and you can use quick passes with a torch to pop bubbles on the surface
what expoy resin inlay did you use?
My problem is that I am using the wrong kind of resin for this application.
It is 5 min casting resin so the resin gels up, trapping the bubbles, before they can float to the surface.
(I got this resin for mold casting. Faster set time means more casts per hour. Air bubbles don’t mater because they are on the unseen back of the casting. I have been using it fir testing because it what I have on hand.)
I need to get a slower cure version so the bubbles can have a chance to float up and pop.
Smooth-on color match urethane casting resin with black so-strong pigment added.
Note: I am using the 325 - 10 min demold time resin - this sets too fast and traps bubbles.
I should be using 326 - 60 min demold time or even slower.
@AaronMatthews…I use ultra-clear tabletop epoxy resin. Plenty of time to pour, let the bubbles rise, and go over with a torch… @ShaneBell is right though. From experience you really need to seal the wood surface before you pour. Simple as mixing up some resin and brushing it on, then let it cure. I’ve had times when I’ve fought one or two little bubble paths that just won’t stop…
What I have been doing is 2 quick spay coats of shellac then a bit of clear resin to seal the wood.
(I have another post on color being wicked up buy the surrounding wood: Testing Resin)
Most of the bubbles I am getting are probably from moisture absorbed by the urethane resin (it is an old batch = +1 year on the shelf) as well as air whipped in while mixing.
the resin I use warns about using solvent based stains and sealers… the resin will de-laminate from it if the other products aren’t dried COMPLETELY. So it’s either wait five days to ensure it’s totally dry, or use a different product. I’m usually impatient so I go the safe route! For me, I’ve found brushing the sealing layer on helps to plug the holes better than a spray medium. But, whatever works, right?! Admittedly, my pours are pretty large usually around 24-28" x 16-18" and either in pine or cedar which are pretty darn porous…