If i saw it correctly your idea of using pegboard as a sacrificial board is a very cool idea. That way you can still use the hold downs on the waste board through the peg holes. Now i need to get me some peg board.
Haha, you noticed that!! Yes the whole Idea was to still use the hold downs, but you have to line it up just perfectly! I think in the future I will be putting out a video for a waste board and hold down idea that Im sort of working on right now…on top of the other things Im working on, lol!!
The paracord sleeve is an excellent idea! That looks great, and I may have to “borrow” that idea for myself!
What was the name of the store you located your cord at. I did a quick search and only found 550 paracord.
Adding a link here to another thread of user assembly notes from @AlanDyke
You are write , it is better to install the motor first
Yes there’s different between the video and photos about y left
I have an alternate method of attaching the eccentric nuts and V-wheels that should keep them from vibrating loose.
You’ll need some M5 nylock nuts, and maybe some extra washers.
Start by winding the eccentric nut all the way up the bolt. Make sure the shoulder of the nut faces away from the head of the bolt. Get it as tight as you can. Put it in the hole, then put the V wheel on with a washer (I used one on both sides of the V wheel) and a Nylock nut.
This essentially mates the eccentric nut to the head of the bolt, so you can adjust it with an allen key instead of a wrench. Before, it was a PIA to adjust the eccentric nut because getting an allen key on the inside of that X carriage AFTER it’s assembled is very difficult and fiddly. Changing that to a nylock nut on the inside means it shouldn’t vibrate loose anymore.
Also, since I added a washer between the carriage and the V-Wheel, it canted the carriage bottom forward just a little bit. On my machine this is a big plus, as it was just a bit out of square, and the only other way to fix it would have been to drill out the holes on the end plates and adjust it by hand.
The only downside that I’ve found is that it’s pretty necessary to use a ratcheting wrench to adjust the inside nut because a socket just won’t fit in there, and you’ll find yourself making small moves to tighten the nut.
I’ve got about 3 hours of cutting time on this new setup and it’s still holding firm.
Just finished assembling my X-Carve.
First of all - wanted to thank all of the people leading
this community - the tips and guidance in this forum were super helpful in the
Since I found myself using this forum step by step, I
thought it could be valuable to write about the things that challenged me for
which I didn’t see a direct answer in the forum history (perhaps these exist in
the forum or instructions, but I didn’t see it):
1000mm Work Area - Both “longer” extrusions
need to protrude on the sides of the waste board by about 2.5cm on each side.
This needs to be accurate on both “long” extrusions so that you end
up with a square setup when attaching the X-Carve. Also - This is needed so
that there is enough room for the “drag chain bracket” (step 5) and
also so that the V-wheels on the y axis don’t brush up against the waste board.
Work Area Step 6 (attach the work area to the rest of
your x-carve) - The two y axis extrusions were slightly not parallel (enough to
be noticeable when trying to connect the work area with the x-carve). I traced
it to one of them being not square with the x axis because of the “x axis
to Y plate” connection. Everything looked fine (no gaps, no visible
problem). Ended up simply releasing the 2 rear thread forming screws (the ones
on the x axis drag chain bracket) and reinserting them - came back to exact
square and parallel to the other extrusion. Maybe this happened when I was
moving the machine or something.
Thanks for all the tips,