Has anyone done a video on how they do a tool change and re-zero the bit? This is a stumbling point for me and I think it would be a big help to the community to see this.
Just my two cents.
Here is a video I did last year for someone that was having trouble getting the rough/detail cut to work with a tool change and re-zero of the Z
Please excuse how horrible the sound is (turn your sounds way down), I did it with a handheld phone.
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You could look into the triquetra zero block. Not sure about using in easel. Ask Charley
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The Triquetra zero block is great when you need a bit change in the middle of the cut. You can use UGS or PicSender to send the zero process and zero the bit every time its changed, and then close UGS or PicSender and tell Easel to confirm the home position, since you already did that part.
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Eyeballing the z even using the paper trick will still create some variation. I finally caved and just shelled out the money for the triquetra from Charley. P.s. you get a deal for being in the forums. Just ask him for the discount code.
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If you do not have any zeroing tool handy here is what I did.
First you have to have a place on the surface that does not move.
You use this spot to set up the bit for the Z axis.
For the home x,y position I use the home switches most large jobs. For anything smaller I move the bit so its center is on the edge of the X and Y. You can use a V bit or one that has 2 sides that allow you to see. I use a V bit as it has a flat side I can use for alignment on x then I turn it to do the y.
Now What I do is this:
Step1 – When you run the first pass use your spot to lower the bit to get the Z axis height. The bit should just touch the surface and no light under the bit tip. After your first pass/job the system will return you back to the home position. Once you are there you raise the bit up Z only. Then put in your new bit.
Step2 – The spot I mentioned before you move the bit there. Keep track of how much x and y movement you make so you can move it back. Adjust the Z till the bit is just touching the surface as before. You can use a flashlight to see if there is any light passing under it. (machinist use this trick to check for flatness.)
Step3 – Now move the bit up 10mm then move x and y back to your original spot. once there you move the bit back down in Z 10 mm and your bit will be ready for the next pass/job.
Note: I have the suckit dust collector attachment. When I move the bit in the Z I move it up about 40mm high so I can put the suckit back on then return it back down to -40 so its ready.
Here is a block I did this technique with. Its too small for the Triquetra zero block and the clearance is also too small for the Z. The X axis gantry was 5mm just above the block. The block is 2"x2"x2" (inches)
