Or Explosive wood. Holy crap
calculated tab depth wrong. wood islands floating into the sky…
what to clean up with? safe to clean up charred surfaces with a razor blade right?
anyone have a favorite collet care solvent?
A moment of silence for the clamp…
Left carve unattended?
yeah. horray for it being on of the cheap woodie clamps.[quote=“RonSabourin, post:6, topic:35723, full:true”]
A moment of silence for the clamp…
yeah. It was one of these https://www.inventables.com/technologies/clamp-set that inventables sent with my machine when they were out of Clamp Set for 3D Carving – Inventables, Inc..
it’s basically this. DIY Clamp Set | Inventables…
oh yes… very much unattended. I have probably gained too much trust in my designs/carving.
This was my first truly epic fail…
Shockingly, it did not break the bit. It did strip the plastic ring off.
That collet got hot. Lucky no fire.
It certainly could be, but I’ve not ever had those kinds of issues that I’m aware of.
A few things I know that were different from my previous job.
- wrong tab size. not large enough to keep the islands from floating.
- upcut spiral instead of a straight cut. Unattached islands are more likely to launch with an upcut than the straight cut bits.
- straight cut bit had a LOC of .8, upcut only had .34
- 5 passes instead of 6.
- Dirty collet, which I’m guessing caused some extra runout and contributes to knocking islands free of the tabs.
have to leave it clamped in to do the second pass. there will be a bit of text on outside edge, bottom half. sooo many tabs to punch. oh well, worth it. big fan of the new bits too… 2 flute upcut witha .5 LOC
the island in the bottom of april, and between 0 and 1 in 2017 was sucked out by the shopvac during cleanup.
Absolutely no floaters this time. This is how it normally comes out.
Everything caused by dull bit. Don’t blame anything else. Check your bit edges under good light before start using. It happens in split of seconds. Starts changing course, exsessive heat and push.
Other factors helps to this disester; high feedrate, over half of the bit size depth, high spindle speed.
But if you have sharp bit, it tolerates most of them.
This happens when you start getting a pro user. You start overlooking things. I know because happend to me couple of times on very expensive woods and screw-up everything.
All I heard was starting to become pro user… Thanks!
In all seriousness, the advice is appreciated Alan.
I’m going to back up your point with some post-mortem evidence where the bit had scorch marks.
30423-07 2F Fish Tail Upcut
LOC 0.394" (10mm)
Overall Length 1.5" (38.1mm)
I measured closer to 11mm which would be 0.443".
My material was 0.48" thick. I was cutting through to 0.4925.
That’s how I started getting into the red area (pic below will explain), above the blue line.
Here are some close ups of the offending bit, which I’m still shocked survived.
rotated to edge is straight on at camera.
the second bit is vertically flipped. red is the zone of pain. green is cutting edges.
Blue is where I wanted to stay below.
at the straight non-wrapped edge that’s not sharp starts at 11mm.
My new working theory is to get a LOC that is appropriate for the depth you are cutting.
That’s why I don’t use clamps or tabs in my designs.
Holds everything down. No flying islands either. Works for me.
Yep. I use the same method if it has small parts, or I’m cutting all of the way through.
Never had it fail, and it gets a far better hold than you would think
Yikes! I have also had some shocking failures as pats ripped free.
The last time squashed some of the teeth on my belts. So you should inspect both sided of them to be sure.
its modern art. throw paint at it and sell it
Soak it un simple green. I also use that to clean my bits. Bits don’t rust, be careful not to leave the collet too long.
simple green all purpose?
standard simple-green all purpose cleaner?
I’m pretty sure I found a 5-10 year old bottle of it whilst cleaning out an old person’s home and now the smell of it is distinctly associated with ‘old people’.