So back to reality,
Those spring loaded two brackets attached to back plate with screws. That means you have to adjust tightness of those four screws and mostly must use some kind of lube like silicon or similar.
Just say it worked slided up and down for surfase errors or depth mistakes.
The reaction time for push is much longer than continious running X and Y movement.
Like WarnixVlot says, surface must be dead flat.
Very fortunate, work surface for lettering must be dead flat anyway.
That breaks down the theory, complicated spring loaded mecanizms arenāt necessary.
Letās make this simple. Could you please draw same holding brackets without slides and springs. This way we can use soldering gunās tip as a V bit.
I thought of doing this but with the wood burner I have.
Its probably the most expensive one you can buy.
Called Razor tip.
https://www.amazon.com/RAZERTIP-SINGLE-BURNER-W-PEN/dp/B0002IXT4O/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1476996917&sr=8-3&keywords=razortip+wood+burner
It has the best temp control of any I have ever used.
Phil
You can sell those mounts and then buy one nice burner.
Thanks. I give away my stuff as I am doing it for hobby at the moment.
Hi Phil,
Cool to see how this develops; from a couple of tie wraps to a nicely designed mount!
Hard to say something about the bit diameter. My wood burning tool accepts different tips. I think in the end I used a triangular point tip. Anyway, the bit diameter can be set very small (1/32 inch?).
It doesnāt matter how many times you pass the same spot: it will not get more burnt. The feed rate is the most important setting.
I made some more name plaques for friends but didnāt take a photo at the time.
Maybe Iāll try some more soon.
Best,
Marnix
Iāve never done Woodburn img before. But random question is a Woodburn er the same thing as a soldering iron or is there something Iām missing?
They are effectively the same as the cheap soldering irons, I use mine for both soldering and woodburning. Just make sure you donāt use the soldering tip to burn unless you like the idea of solder residue on your project.
Hmm okay maybe Iāll give it a try. I got a 300$ soldering iron can set the exact temperature and warms up in seconds. Maybe Iāll buy some tips and give it a try.
There are many types and the price varies.
For the cheap ones they will do ok if your very good at the control and they are preset to one temp.
What you have to understand about the cheap versions that do not have any variable temperature control is that they will heat up to a specific temperature. You have to control your strokes based on the tip cooling as it transfers heat to the wood. There is physics math to it but I am not going to go there.
The temperature controlled ones are more expensive but offer you the ability to control the temperature. This is used for the various types of wood. Some wood requires more temp than others. For instance balsa vs redwood.
If your going to hook it up to the CNC you will need to figure out how to set the speed/feeds in order to get good results. Trial and error will be your friend. Use timed sequences and have the CNC do a straight line and see when the tip gets too cold to burn and you will know. Then you will need to set it up to work from there. Like set the feed slower if it gets too cold or faster if its getting too hot.
I am not aware of any custom G-Code to run a wood burner.
I am thinking it has to be similar to V-carve with the plunge that will ramp or start out with a light touch for a few seconds then full on for the duration of the travel. There is also thick to thin on the same line. It will require some ingenuity.
I had plans on doing all of this but it has to wait till after my move.
To get the strokes used in the below image requires a good deal of skill at control with the stroke.
http://dynastyorientarts.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/01/eagle5wb.jpg
Here is my woodburning tool
I had a 50% off coupon for Michaels so it only cost me $12
25 watts
now time to work with my set up to get it to like the stuff on this website
http://pyroprint.com/cnc-wood-burner.html
Visit your local box store. They now have very inexpensive video cameras, with great audio and all. I go a Slick brand one for under $20 US, and it is my daily user for the past 4 years.