How did you get the X-Carve to move 700 mm at one time?
When you click on the carve button, you have the option to move your spindle in whatever increments you choose. I usually choose 590ish to use as much as possible of my 600mm ruler.
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In the inscructions, for the ACME lead screw, there is no instruction whatsoever to ābreak the delrin nut inā.
Only for the M8mm, because the video is for the M8mm one.
They just tell you to put it in, and thatās all. Even the video for that procedure is inside the accordion of the M8 threaded rod. So, therefore, I skipped it.
That said, I jogged it in, and itās better. It can go to the top now. I also put a bit more current to the motor.
Also, in the homing setup it did get to the top, crushing my limit switch 
. They should put an in-between step that is as simple as:
Limit switches test:
Please, activate the Z Swich
Please, activate the X switch
Please, activate the Y switch
ā¦
Al seems correct!
[Start homing session?]
I am very dissapointed at thisā¦
agreed !
but personaly i did it myself, i launch the homing, and i press with my finger on the swich, if it dont work i quick plug out the main power. thatās not realy a solution, but it help
Hey guys, new to the forum and new this x carve machine. I purchased it from a friend of a friend and he gave me the basic run down but Iām having a small issue. My milling seems to be off centered. Looks perfectly fine in easel but after carving itās about .25in off on both x and y axis! Any ideas? Thanks!
Iām still having Z axis issues also. Very annoying!
Been through the calibration instructions, got the measurement down from 320.00 to 185(ish) in easel. When I send it out to cut at 1mm depth it still drops to 5mm on itās first pass.
Not ideal when your trying to engrave acrylic!
@CharleyThomas has a YouTube video on how to do Axis calibration for X and Y, same concept can be applied for Zā¦ check it out, it might help here. The $102 (iirc) value dictates steps for Z, you should make sure thatās set correctly.
Hey Robert, Thanks for your Video, it helps me a lot. Thumps up!
Itās actually a bad idea to adjust your potentiometer this way. You should set your vref to the rating of your motor, if you go over this, you run the risk of actually damaging your stepper motor (i ran into that when i first built my x-carve)
Once you damage the motor, it will either stop working all together, or lose power significantly.
For the lesser informed out here what does that mean and how would you do that?
at 2:49 in the video, he shows you how to read the amperage being sent to the motors, you should also know what amperage your motors are designed for. (in this case, i believe he said they are rated for 1.5a)
You want to start out with your potentiometer at itās lowest setting, then power the device, as he has done, and turn the potentiometer up until you reach this amperage. Going beyond a tiny bit may not cause damage, due to tollerance allowances by the manufacturer of your motor (i.e. they often undervalue the device for safety reasons) However, going above the manufacturerās suggested limits is asking for trouble.
Itās true that you donāt want to have them turned all the way up, but as long as you have a short duty cycle you can go up past the rated lead a scooch. If youāre doing something like laser cutting though, where one axis is constantly in movement, you would want to have it turned down as low as possible in the operating range for that axis to maximize the life of everything.
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For those that are handy enough to connect a couple wires and an LED to a battery, hereās how I use a small touchplate I made to zero out the Z axis on my workpiece. Itās easy to make this touchplate, and it helps immensely with multi-bit projects. Itās not as good as a 3-axis touchplate, but it works great for Z.
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I wonder if some sort of audible device added to the circuit might be helpful? That way one would not always need to be looking at the little red light.
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I considered that, but didnāt have a piezo that worked with 1.5V. If I ever make a second version (probably wonāt), itāll be unbowed and have a switch for light/sound/both.
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Itās not necessarily a maintenance or troubleshooting video, but hereās a video I made showing how to go from Google SketchUp to Easel.
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Oo, this is a handy forum post! I just done a new carvingā¦ First hour everything worked perfect! Carve looks greatā¦ 10 min later I started a new carve, my machine lost steps. Iāve encountered this problem before, when there is āto muchā dust on the rails,it shifted a mm or so. But, if I see your x carve, itās even more dusty then mine! So, maybe I did something wrongā¦ Aah well, Iāll use your videos as a guidance 
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My X-Carve gets pretty dusty, but I havenāt had much of a problem with it. I donāt let it get too bad though, since the MDF dust will tend to compact into a grayish scale that takes more than a quick wipedown to remove.
Thanks for sharing the info.
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