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I am looking at using something similar to this as my spindle on an xcarve when I buy it. Is my best option to just drill holes in the included mount and attach it to the plate? I noticed the quiet cut 600w spindle is also 57mm. How does this attach to the machine? Can I just buy this mount and use it with the spindle I linked?
Be careful, that spindle runs on 100V DC voltage in order to get full rpm out of it. Someone else here on the forums bought one and found the voltage problem after the fact, then needed a new power supply
I planned on getting a separate power supply as well. My current concern is just being able to mount it. I know I could drill out the mounts they provide but it sure would be easier to just toss the right mount in my cart when I go to order.
Here is what I did. I used the generic spindle mount available here and fashioned my own back plate out of 1/4 aluminum. It was much better than the stock spindle at 100 volts but still not satisfactory. So I upgraded to the hitachi router.
I have this spindle, a 100 volt power supply, and the mounting plate if you are interested in buying it.
That quote Spindle is still just a 100 VDC motor with a collet adapter on the skinny shaft. Find a spindle that has the collet as part of the shaft not an add on.
A trim router would be a better choice.
The mount that comes with this spindle (just like the one in your link) also fits this back plate and does a better job as a heat sink, BUT, it allows to much rocking, deflection because it is not tall enough. That is why I went with the generic spindle mount pictured here. You can see this spindle is fastened in two places - one high and one low for better stability. My custom made back plate also has three sets of v-wheels for increased stability. The extra holes you see in the middle fit the mount that comes with the spindle. I found running this at 75 volts provided plenty of rpms for most jobs and created less heat. The 100v power supply has a pot that you can use to adjust the output voltage.
I am finally done with the Preston engines and install so I have started working on my machine. I have a lot of work to do because of the Mods I plan on.
One problem I found was that the 90 degree angle on all the V wheels I received are not 90 degrees so I guess I will make my own wheels and that will take some time. Three different lathe set ups to machine them.
Still thinking of how to best do a spindle with a draw bar. will use a Ridgid 2400 trim router that I have in the mean time. Also will build a mount for my 3/8" electric drill that I can off set from center to do the drilling of the work table.
It works great. I am just used to being able to cut .25" deep on roughing passes. The Hitachi does that easily. I would go nuts taking .05" passes in wood. That’s just crazy… I got a wife and kids I need to support.
No. I meant I have to go to my real job and earn money to pay for this hobby. I did make a dozen signs for an Irish Pub, some awards for a paddle board tournament and a few business signs. Yesterday I machined replacement parts for a Power Wheels ride on toy for a friend out of HDPE. That was pretty sweet. But it ain’t gonna pay the bills.
Hmmm now you have me second guessing haha. I didn’t want to go with a router because of the inability to have proper speed control. What spindle would you suggest? I thought for sure I could take a .25" pass of wood with this setup. I guess I was wrong.
Now I am eyeballing the dewalt and maybe just picking up something like the superPID. I am not very familar with how these machines control spindle speed. It has been a while since I have been in front of a CNC and never have I been in front of a hobbyist style machine. I just need to confirm that spindle control with work with the arduino board and I probably go this route.
I think you will ultimately control your spindle speed manually. The “suggestions” for feeds and speeds in the software are almost totally irrellevant depending on your machine. Plus, auto spindle speed in the software will in no way reflect your spindle speed. Its not worth the mess.
If you use a router, just turn it on when you are ready to cut. And adjust your speed on the router and get a cheap $20 tachometer so you can see what each speed setting on your router means in terms of RPM. Here is a link to a tach:
You are probably right. I just want everything in the computer haha. The ~$150 is a large price to pay for such convenience using the superPID controller.
I see what you are saying. I have done most of my amateur machining manually so I understand what you mean when you say sweet spots. If someone is giving me a well educated opinion to save my money you won’t see me going against the grain. Maybe if I utilize the machine enough I might justify the purchase just to have an integrated tach.
One thing I am thinking of though is maybe relocating the speed control might be a neat feature. I am assuming you normally stop the job and spin the dial on the router or am I just being too cautious.