57MM DC Spindle

The mount that comes with this spindle (just like the one in your link) also fits this back plate and does a better job as a heat sink, BUT, it allows to much rocking, deflection because it is not tall enough. That is why I went with the generic spindle mount pictured here. You can see this spindle is fastened in two places - one high and one low for better stability. My custom made back plate also has three sets of v-wheels for increased stability. The extra holes you see in the middle fit the mount that comes with the spindle. I found running this at 75 volts provided plenty of rpms for most jobs and created less heat. The 100v power supply has a pot that you can use to adjust the output voltage.

David - you build your machine yet?

I am finally done with the Preston engines and install so I have started working on my machine. I have a lot of work to do because of the Mods I plan on.
One problem I found was that the 90 degree angle on all the V wheels I received are not 90 degrees so I guess I will make my own wheels and that will take some time. Three different lathe set ups to machine them.
Still thinking of how to best do a spindle with a draw bar. will use a Ridgid 2400 trim router that I have in the mean time. Also will build a mount for my 3/8" electric drill that I can off set from center to do the drilling of the work table.

Dave

Sooo… not interested in my Chino-Spindle and 100v power supply? :slight_smile:

I’m not :smile: but Zach may still be if I did not convince him to go another route like you did. :smile:

Dave

It works great. I am just used to being able to cut .25" deep on roughing passes. The Hitachi does that easily. I would go nuts taking .05" passes in wood. That’s just crazy… I got a wife and kids I need to support.

Are you using your machine in a commercial shop. What are you making with it?

Dave

No. I meant I have to go to my real job and earn money to pay for this hobby. I did make a dozen signs for an Irish Pub, some awards for a paddle board tournament and a few business signs. Yesterday I machined replacement parts for a Power Wheels ride on toy for a friend out of HDPE. That was pretty sweet. But it ain’t gonna pay the bills.

Ya day jobs can really get in the way of hobbies. Thankfully I am retired so I don’t suffer from that.

Hmmm now you have me second guessing haha. I didn’t want to go with a router because of the inability to have proper speed control. What spindle would you suggest? I thought for sure I could take a .25" pass of wood with this setup. I guess I was wrong.

Now I am eyeballing the dewalt and maybe just picking up something like the superPID. I am not very familar with how these machines control spindle speed. It has been a while since I have been in front of a CNC and never have I been in front of a hobbyist style machine. I just need to confirm that spindle control with work with the arduino board and I probably go this route.

I think you will ultimately control your spindle speed manually. The “suggestions” for feeds and speeds in the software are almost totally irrellevant depending on your machine. Plus, auto spindle speed in the software will in no way reflect your spindle speed. Its not worth the mess.

If you use a router, just turn it on when you are ready to cut. And adjust your speed on the router and get a cheap $20 tachometer so you can see what each speed setting on your router means in terms of RPM. Here is a link to a tach:

You are probably right. I just want everything in the computer haha. The ~$150 is a large price to pay for such convenience using the superPID controller.

No kidding. It’s very gratifying to experiment on your own. Not to belabor the point but:

I see what you are saying. I have done most of my amateur machining manually so I understand what you mean when you say sweet spots. If someone is giving me a well educated opinion to save my money you won’t see me going against the grain. Maybe if I utilize the machine enough I might justify the purchase just to have an integrated tach.

One thing I am thinking of though is maybe relocating the speed control might be a neat feature. I am assuming you normally stop the job and spin the dial on the router or am I just being too cautious.

That would be cool. But no, I reach right in there and adjust it. But I have the Hitachi 12mc and the dial is conveniently located up top. Not sure where it is on the other routers.

Still, sometimes spending the money and experimenting is worth it… as long as you remember to temper your regret.

I built a homemade Arduino-based tachometer that will soon permanently mount to my machine. I was able to find a cheap Arduino clone, I nice IR LED/REceiver combo (10 pack), and a tiny, inexpensive OLED display. $12 for the Uno; $2 for the sensor; $10 for a cool readout. I wrote the code yesterday and tested it. Works great. Will mount this weekend. Let me know if you want the details, schematic or code.

I would love to see this device permanently mounted. I might be interested in a similar setup.

Here you go:

Here is the under side. I made the air diverter and dust shoe out of kitchen cutting board (HDPE). The sensor mount is also HDPE and I thought it deserved a little protection under there. The LED light (not necessary but it illuminates the work and makes it easier to see through the clear dust curtain) came from a cheap book light. I used my z-axis limit switch wire to supply five volts to the circuit.

A few things to consider: 1. The wire to the sensor must be shielded. I used a shielded cat 6 cable.
2. The whole thing can be 1/3 the size of mine. You can use the Arduino micro: http://www.amazon.com/OSOYOO-Arduino-ATMEGA328P-Module-Micro-controller/dp/B00UACD13Q/ref=sr_1_4?&ie=UTF8&qid=1440693358&sr=8-4&keywords=arduino+micro

The code is posted elsewhere but let me know if you want it. I went through four revisions to get a stable reading at >15,000 rpms.