Anyone have any tips on 2 pass carving wood?

X-Carve Tips and Tricks
1

I have been trying to do a V-carve and pocket carve with an end mill on the same piece of wood. I know if there are areas in the wood that flex during cuts can cause issues but I have ensured that there is no gaps beneath. Also this part I am working with is not much larger than a quarter. Software is V-Carve and Easel. X-carve is stock
What I am interested in is when I do a bit change I need to ensure that the Z axis is the same for each bit or I get lines where I do not want them.
Any experienced makers out there know of any techniques for this?
I am using Inventables bits below:
https://www.inventables.com/technologies/solid-carbide-single-flute-engraving-bit-18-shank
https://www.inventables.com/technologies/solid-carbide-upcut-fish-tail-spiral-bits (the 1/32 dia)

An example of one of the cuts:

FullSizeRender (1).jpg1802×1792 611 KB

Thanks

1 Like
2

Hey stephen have you checked out my videos on how to zero your tool and the different methods I think that they could help in this situation

Correct me if I am wrong but you are wanting to basically do a roughing and then finishing pass on this project correct?

making the files in v-carve and then transfering them to easel might hinder the process a little because of the way easel is set up

do you have the new touch plate and x-controller for the x-carve?

you might consider using a program like universal gcode sender or chilipepper to set your zero’s between tool changes accurately

of course your could use the multi meter method in easel to get a more accurate z zero when doing a tool change

3

I did use the multi-meter trick.
Yes I am trying to use the V-bit carve to do the detail the 1/32 bit cannot do.
Vcarve makes 2 passes with both bits and I just have to change the tool out.
changing the tool varies the Z so I need to make sure they are set the same.
Yes I have seen your videos.
I have a zero touch plate from Charley.
I have tested and the zero touch plate works perfectly
Its too large for this wooden disk.
I am going to see about milling a smaller version this weekend.

6

So, assuming you start with a flat and true piece of stock…

Using the example you have,set your staring point somewhere in the flat part. Lower your bit until it is nearly touching. With the machine powered so it resists small forces, loosen your chuck and let the bit fall to your work surface. Then tighten. Now you have a true 0.

Make your first cut. If you are using Easel as your GCode sender, it will return the bit to x/y 0 after cutting.

Now raise the bit, replace it with the new one you want to use, and follow the same procedure. Now you are working off the same 0 even if the bit is slightly longer or shorter.

7

I plan on trying the Z axis fix for the crooked nut. There was another who had similar problems. Once I am finished with that I will test again and try several tests to see what corrects the issue.
Thanks

8

If you’re going to try using a probe, I highly recommend the Triquetra. It can zero all three axis in one step.

9

I just posted something about the same problem and was told it was likely flex from machine and/or bit flex. And was also suggested to do a second time going ove the project at full depth so it just does 1 pass the second time around…I’m waiting on the z probe and X controller and hope it at least helps.

10

I already bought one.