Hi CharleyThomas, this is a great idea, thanks for sharing.
I downloaded your excel spreadsheet last night and have been converting it into a python script. This not because there is anything wrong with your excel spreadsheet, but rather I thought I could make it more universal to run on any system and even for people without excel. I’m also always looking for ways to improve my python programming skills. I’ll make the code available when I’m done for those who are interested.
That sounds like a great ideal. I would be very interested to see your final product.
Here is the latest version of the 3 Axis Touch Plate G-Code Generator.xlsx (66.9 KB) for anyone who want to use it. Keep in mind, This zero’s all three axis at one time so you will need a touch plate that will lock in to the corner of you work piece.
Charley
I want to publicly thank Charley for making me a version of his marvelous touch plate. He is a consummate, generous professional and a nice guy too! His touch plate is great and ihighlybrecommend using it.
Thank you Marc. That was very kind of you.
good morning… from the East just finish looking at the video and was going to try to set up your program up and try and run it . I can open it in " open Office " but it will not let me enter and info, I do not have any MS programs, I have tryed note pad NG,
You can open and edit it in google docs (sheets)
hi Glenn I tryed that it will copy into the spread sheet but the inch and mm set is missing for some reason I can not down size to get all section on the spread sheet this has happen before ???
all other spread sheets open in read only …
I can edit the green boxes. but I do not see a blue box for changing the Operating Units
Would it help you guys if I recreate the spreadsheet and have a separate page for inches and another for millimeters?
Charley
just add another tab, one for inches and one for millimeter?
Working on that right now.
Ok, I have added two more tabs to the spread sheet. The original tab is still there that you can use to switch between inch and mm units. I added a new tab for just inch and another for just mm.
Please keep in mind that you will need a touch plate that locks into the corner of your work piece. A flat piece of aluminum held in place by your hand will not work very well or accurately. It should also be at least 3/4 inches thick so that it can be used with V-Bits because you are actually using the largest diameter of the bit to reference from. This could be the shank or the actual cutting edge if it is larger than the shank. Let me know if this doesn’t make since.
I have saved it in Excel 97-2003 and in Excel 2007 to hopefully make it more compatible. The 97-2003 version may have some distortion of the graphics but not sure.
3 Axis Touch Plate G-Code Generator Excel 2007.xlsx (82.9 KB)
3 Axis Touch Plate G-Code Generator Excel 97-2003.xls (550 KB)
Charley
Thanks Charley!
Your welcome. So I am assuming that the spreadsheet updates as you change the values?
Which version did you try?
I tried both, all seem to work as expected.
question … In your video you say to save the tool set up to a file, when you change the tooling and then go back to tool used to do the set up. the insertion of the tool in the router has to be place back to the same position or it dose not matter
Being new to all of this, I may be speaking out of turn. That being said, I imagine putting a stop collar on the router bits would allow you to place them in the collet in the same exact position time after time. This would then allow you to position the entire X Carve in the same zero position each time. But then I again, I could be wrong about this.
Good Question.
When using the spreadsheet to create the g-code file, you should save the file using a name that represents the bit size you are working with. You can then reload this file and use it time and again.
When using multiple bits of various sizes and types, you will need to have separate tool path files created for each bit change. This doesn’t work when your tool path pauses to allow a tool change.
When I carve complex projects I create multiple tool paths that run independently of each other. That is what makes my touch plate and G-Code generator so nice. You can re-zero your machine after a bit change and not rely on eyeballing your 0,0,0 position. It will be perfect every time. You could even remove your work piece from the machine, take it out into the sunlight and admire what you have done so far, then put it back on the machine in a different location, re-zero, and pickup where you left off. Just make sure that the work piece is square to the table all the time.
Example: You are doing a carving and plan to use a 1/4" endmill, a 1/8" endmill, and a 1/8" V-bit. For zeroing purposes you will need to generate only 2 zeroing g-code files. One for the 1/4" bit and since both 1/8" bits have a 1/8" shank, you only need to create one g-code file to zero either of the 1/8" bits.
For the 1/4" bit tool path, insert your 1/4" bit, load the g-code to zero your 1/4" bit and run it. Then load your tool path for that bit and do the carving.
Next, insert your 1/8" endmill and zero your machine using the g-code file you created for the 1/8" bits. Then load your file for carving with the 1/8" endmill and carve away.
Finally, switch to the 1/8" V-Bit. Load the same zeroing file you used for the 1/8" endmill and zero you machine again. Just remember that the G-Code file uses the overall bit diameter as a reference point when zeroing v-bits so you need to make sure that the shank of the bit is the part that makes contact with the zeroing plate for the x and y axis. That is why I make my zeroing plates 1 inch thick. Then finish you carving with the v-bit tool path.
It may not be necessary to perform a complete zeroing process after each bit change. When your machine is zeroed initially, it theoretically won’t change in the x and y directions, only the z when changing bits. So you could get away with only zeroing the z axis after a tool change regardless of the bit diameter.
However, I prefer to re-zero the entire machine after a bit change. This corrects for any discrepancy that may occur when actually using the force necessary to loosen and retighten the collets during bit changes as well as any discrepancies that may have been introduced during carving.
Some bits come with stop collars on them. For me, a $9.00 set of 10 bits with collars just doesn’t add up to precision. While the bits may be good for carving, I wonder just how exact the collars are compared to the process of zeroing the bit. All it would take is some saw dust stuck to the tip of the chuck to keep the bit collar from seating perfectly. Then your z is not correct. Re-zeroing eliminates this potential problem.
I hope I have answered you question thoroughly.
Charley
