That’s correct @DavidSohlstrom. You basically bypass all of the electronics (completely reversible). They are in Australia so the shipping takes a while, but I sent them a question giving them my 611 as the basis, and they sent step-by-step photographic instructions. It seems pretty straight forward and if I can get down below 16K on this thing, I think I can really start to do some damage. That 16K minimum is pretty darned fast.
I have to disagree with you on this one. Starting out on making parts using CNC can be costly if you experiment with feeds and speeds and get it wrong and wind up breaking end mills.
Using a good feeds and speeds software when you are generating tool paths and Gcode with your CAM program is always a good idea for the beginner.
Once you have some time under your belt running your machine as you have then you can make adjustments to your feeds and speeds without the use of programs or spread sheets.
I’ve been doing this for several years now and I still use a program for my feeds and speeds.
I’ve never referenced any spreadsheets for this, it is entirely based on experience. Obviously, the type of bit used plays a big part in it, but for those I have used, I know for sure that if I go to the maximum speed (which I always do for other materials), the ABS will melt.
I think you are 100% correct David, I tried “guessing” at speed setting and while I was able to cut wood, the machine was not cutting as well as it could. After I started taking the time to actually figure out the spindle speeds and feedrates based on actual data my cuts improved greatly. And I am sure the bits are going to last longer.
Running the 611 at max speed is way to fast for most of the bits and types of materials commonly milled on the XC and is sure to overheat the bit.
Yes. Of course. if you go the maximum speed, ABS will melt. We’re not talking about MAXIMUM speed here. Just saying, you would have to be crawling along to melt abs at 8,000 RPMS and/or using more than 2 flutes.
If you are using 1/8th bits or larger, you would REALLY have to get it wrong to break a bit. Unless your machine is not rigid and/or you are using the stock spindle or some other tiny DC motor.
Just based on 10 or so years of homemade cnc machining, nothing beats experimentation. Otherwise, I too would still be machining at .001" DOC at 100" per minute instead of .125" DOC and 70 inches per minute. What works for the tiny stock spindle has absolutely no relationship to what the Dewalt can do on a properly set up machine.
I don’t think anyone is recommending .001 DOC or slow feedrates. All I am saying is that the min speed of the Dewalt is 16,000 rpm and that is very fast for trying to cut most plastics.
Anyone interested in lower speeds but still want a trim router should consider the makita router I bought, its 1.25 hp like the dewalt, and has a much higher speed range. Goes down to 10,000 rpm. It probably loses alot of hp at the low end, but thats just what happens. Needs some shimming to fit in the dewalt spindle but I absolutely love my makita.
Where, might I ask, did you get the shims? I bought the Makita clone from Menards to try and if this works out I will get the Makita when it takes a dump. I can get the 611 mount from Inventables but I will need the shims.
I used some pvc sheeting that was the perfect thickness laying around. There is a thread about the makita where you can download the files to 3d print shims too. The sheeting I used was 0.05 inches thick wrapped twice. Ideally you would have something 0.0825 inches.
If you want to just order the spindle mount plate for $6.25 and re-purpose your v-wheels, then you could easily cut a mount out of 3/4" MDF or plywood, or acrylic. Here is a DXF file for the Makita. You cut two of these. And then cut a kerf in one side and drill a hole through the edge to make a clamp. The lines at the bottom are locators for the drill holes to mount to the standard spindle mount holes. (35 and 55mm from the left edge).
I could see modifying the bottom clamp so the inside hole is a pocket. Then drill holes around the circumference so air can escape. Then you have a built in air deflector as well. @EmilyMaker’s dust shoe air deflector is pretty sweet though.MakitaHolder_Test.dxf (150.2 KB)
I use the Dewalt DWP611 and it is amazing. As long as you match feeds and speeds it doesn’t care what it cuts. I generally leave it on speed 3 for most woods and have done feeds from 60 in/min on oak upto 150 in/min on mdf and could probably go a bit faster. I’m working on modding the built in controller on the 611 to accept pwm from grbl. Should be possible and the bonus of having constant speed regulation is even better.
Dewalt from lowes. On sale at 129$. Home depo online is $116. Lowes matches plus 10% extra off. So it is currently 104$ new. Just a heads up if anyone was interested.
It’s kinda weird. When I got the 611 for my SO2 just under two years ago. It was retailing for about 79~99 (MSRP).
But in the last year or so- it has gone up.
You can still find new ones on eBay for $100 (free shipping)
I just purchased a Dewalt 611 as an upgrade since I was having trouble with my 24V spindle. I’m super excited at the possibility of 150 in/min on MDF. What cut depth were you using?
0.08" but that is being cautious you could do over .125" with slight adjustments to feeds and speeds plus ramping
Nick, when you begin working on that controller mod (to enable pwm control), Please start a new thread. (if you haven’t already!
Russ from Coral Springs, Fl USA
Throughout this topic, I get the feeling that there are 2 to 3 distinct, (but they certainly could overlap) opinions/options.
- Sound Levels
- Dust and/or debris from carving.
I’d like to ask the question of using a sound box to cover the machine while it’s running.
It could be opaque (wood) on the 2 sides and back, and possible acrylic in front & possibly on top.
It would have the capability of being soundproofed enough to make a big diff in DB when working.
AND it would keep dust/debris contained into a much smaller area. (vacuum could be used, too).
if this hasn’t been brought up, maybe there’s a reason why people shy away from “dust” cover boxes?
That’s all it takes Russ. I’m using 611, Power = I have plenty, Sound level = I don’t care as long as it gives me cutting pleasure, Dust = I come up most versatile Dust boot, I don’t have that problem. What else we need to spend more money for to be fancy? I’m Dewalt lover, Makita comes second but no solid mount available.
I hear what you’re saying, “the end justifies the means” in carving!
I’ve been on the hunt for a good Dust boot - think I found someone with a good design and he’s willing to make & sell one to me. I’ll let you know how that progresses.
I have just finished a nice workbench in the garage, but - I also live in South Florida, so garages tend to get a bit heated up during the day, cooling off to stifling at night! I’d like to be able to use the X-Carve in what I call my “Arduino” room, but I’m also married. I would need to keep not only the sound down, but the dust to a real minimum. Not sure how i’m going to do that with a shop vac, but i’ve even seen some pretty efficient sound enclosures for them, too.