I cannot even imagine using the X-Carve inside the living area of the house. Even with a really good dust collection system the dust is still going to get out (and go everywhere). Using a small bit produces such a fine dust it is almost like smoke.
My wife would just laugh if I asked her about using a spare bedroom for it.
Thatās what you need, āSound Enclosureā. No matter what kind of spindle/Router you have, wood chattering and screaming all youāll have. Especially when youāre cutting Plywood with downcut bit, that whistle louder then Steam engine trains.
Buy her some really nice ear muffs. And a diamond bracelet. Lol
As for the garages heating up, Iām in Ohio and for some reason itās 95 today. And the garage isā¦ Nasty. But. Still worth it.
Bryan - you made me laugh!
but, YES, Alan, soundproofing. Iāve played guitar most all my life & I like to record - even if itās not me! about a year and a half ago, I built a soundproof booth in my office. it sits off all 4 walls and from the ceiling. it was certainly a labor of love, yet i still call it the BFH (booth from hell) - for all the work i put into it - it actually took me 2 buildsā¦ the 2nd being so much more professionally done after a lot of research. in any case, (no pun intended) thatās what i hope to do with a soundproof-ish case. 3 sides wood and maybe the top & front plexi, but maybe only the front. that way i can do soundproofing on the top, also. it will have soundproofing on the bottom too. havenāt even started to physically draw up the design, but I do have a lot of it in my head so far. the other thing I have to do is to really do some carving with different mediums so that i know what kind of noise iām looking at. right now the 400W quiet spindle (without really carving anything) is soooo quiet.
Russ
Youāll see when start carving. So you can do Plexiglas any faces, just needs to be double and a little space between.
It took me a while to understand what you said, but now i get it. You mean for soundproofing, use 2 sheets of plastic, with an air-gap. that makes sense, but Iāve found that this still leaves room for a lot of sound-wave transfer. I do believe that there is a clear glue or gel you can put between the 2 plexiās that will defeat that. much like safety glass, but made more for sound-wave deadening.
there will be much experimentation ahead.
I used that theory on the walls of my āBFHā (booth). Each wall (and the ceiling) has 2 pieces of sheet-rock with a special vibration dampening āGreenGlueā in between them. There is an inner wall and an outer wall which has that disconnected āair-gapā (with insulation) to keep vibrations from the outside from reaching inside the booth.
Itās not all that big, but it sure is my āquiet spaceā.
I will probably use that double-plexi for my case.
Russ
Haha, It took me while what I said, (After many straight shots.) 
Iāll try when Iām not drunk next time.
Hi @RussellHolt
You may also want to look at including angles in the design of your sound enclosure.
What I mean by that is when sound proofing a room with a window, a lot of times it helps to angle the window just slightly into the room so that bouncing sound waves are directed down to the floor or up to the ceiling depending on which has the best sound dampening qualities. So, for the X-Carve sound box, aside from a 2 ply with air gap approach, you may want to angle the window in to the box at a less than 90 degree (maybe 5 degrees less) and bounce the sound down to the MDF of the waste board.
Just a thought. (and when I build my sound enclosure, this is one method Iāll be employing)
Ive been using my makita on my x-carve, and the sound really isnāt that bad. At 10,000 rpm its super quiet, quieter than normal talking levels. at 30,000, its loud, about as loud as a vacuum cleaner constantly going, but not earsplitting. I use spiral upcut or straight bits most of the time. Dust, now that I have my dust boot, is almost non-existent. My vacuum has hepa filtration, so I see no fine particulate after engraving. When milling, chips will occasionally escape, but nothing a little sweep or vacuum cant handle. keep in mind I sleep with this machine, so good dust collection is very important. When its cutting I use a nice big set of closed back over ear headphones. Does the trick.
Sketch42, the angle thing - very good idea, and it really doesnāt have to be a large angle, and it really only needs to be one side & maybe the front (having an angle there may improve viewing. I will use that in my design. I wonder if this (sound/dust cover) is worth a new thread?
thanks for that.
EmilyMaker - no matter how good my dust catcher may turn out, my (much) better half would not let that kind of noise go on for 10, 20, 30 minutes. Iād prefer it to be handled so that very little noise escapes the room when the door is shut.
first things first, though - my new GShield comes tomorrow evening & while iāve done my share of āmockā carves, iām still a Carvirgin. <-- oh yeah, i really said that.
Russ
been there.
I donāt have an audio detection device other than my own two 70 year old ears and I have found that the DeWalt611 is a lot quieter than the 300watt spindle that came with my x-carve. I definitely needed ear muffs with the 300w spindle but I can sit beside my x-carve running the 611 and the noise level is not objectionable at all. When I leave the room (spare bedroom converted to cnc room) and close the door I can barely hear the 611 a few feet from the door.
I already have an 800W, water cooled spindle + VFD but I was in the hardware store tonight and there was a Makita RT0701CX with my name on it so I bought it.
Iāll have to make a mount for it but Iām sure someone here, has already done that .
First Iāll have to finish building the X-Carveā¦
For those who are trying to minimize the noise level, take a good look at what you have your X-carve resting on. Most wooden items (table, work bench, etc) will act as an amplifier for sound.
How do you mount the .8kw spindle to the x-carve?
I used the dewalt 611 mount and printed a thin sleeve to fill the gap between the spindle and mount. It works great.
I use a 3d printed mount still and it has worked perfectly for my needs. I keep meaning to mill an aluminum but I can hardly get a free moment on the mill now between carbon fiber work for RCs and aluminum milling for 713maker.com stuff. Maybe once I have my larger mill back from the recent move I will mill a new full metal mount for it.
But so far for all my aluminum milling work the 3d printed mount has been great. I printed it at 50% infill and it is a tank and a half.
Holy Crap! I followed Emilyās advice and switched from the stock spindle to a Makita and itās like a totally new machine. No more chatter and I can cut at more than twice the speed I was using before. Iām cutting primarily plastic and the stock spindle had way to much runout to make clean cuts at more than 15 in/min. Iām running at 40 now with No chatter and and the cuts are clean and beautiful. Wish Iād switched earlier. The Makita RT0701C is very quiet at 10k RPM and works great on plastic. I used the 611 spindle mount and some spare plastic sheet I had as a spacer.
I second that. Been cutting acrylic with the Makita. Still, I wish we could get below 10k rpms. Even slightly above at 40 ipm and cheap acrylic begins to gum up. It is VERY quiet, until my compressor kicks in and scares the bejeesus out of me.
Since my stock spindle gave up on me, I bought the dewalt 611 tooā¦ Seems like a solid machine! Now I just have to mount and test it! 
