Im new to this and Im sure this is a simple fix (or I hope) but I when I carve a line of text, it cuts deeper on the left side than it does on the right (looking at machine). I have tried re-squaring up the machine (corner to corner), the z-axis and checking the z steps and still nothing. The x-axis is 4" on both the right and left side of the board and the y-axis height is based on the same spacer block in all 4 corners. Either I’m missing something or my idea of squaring it up is way off. What am I doing wrong? Thanks.
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How different is the depth?
Is your stock flat?
I leveled the table, the machine and made sure the stock was flat. On the attached image, the “u” in United is .049 deep, and the “s” at the end of States is .031. It’s not entirely noticeable but on another piece of the project the text barely cuts on the right end and the left is .025.
Level doesn’t equal parallel to the X-axis. Double check that. If it’s not that, it might be something loose (bit in collet, Z axis pulley). The stars on the right look better, how and where are you zeroing?
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you should look into tramming your wasteboard.
Neil is right it’s probably not level relative to your X & Y axes.
I checked the height of the X axis off the waste board on both the right and left sides and it was the same 4", is that the correct way or am I doing that wrong. I zero in the lower left and using the z-probe.
Don’t measure to the X-rail. Put a bit in the router and measure between the tip and the bed at various points around the machine. It may give a better indication of what is shifting. If you can, get a micrometer to measure the distance, rather than holding a ruler. You appear to be out about 1/64”. On some rullers, that is less than the thickness of a line. It can be very hard to detect by eye. I use a 10x magnifying loop when I am using a ruler, such as calibrating the lateral steps.
It’s all about precision in your measurement. How are you measuring?
What bit were you using in that carve? Looks like your zero was a bit low.
Darrin - I did that as well and you are right, it was roughly 1/32 to 1/64. It doesnt appear much in most cases but when Im doing fine text that isn’t very deep, it almost doesnt carve anything on the right side.
Neil - I am measuring with calipers and a ruler that came with my calipers that has measurements to 1/64. I was using a 90d vbit.
As a machinist, ideally, this would be the best way to check for parallel.
But I know not everyone has a $200 dial indicator. You could get away with using a block and sheet of paper. Let the readout of your machine do the work for you. Touch off a flat end mill with a block and sheet of paper. Zero it off and then move the block around the waste board and check your readout of the machine.
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So then say I find out I am off somewhere, where do I make the adjustments to correct this?
Also - as far as surfacing my waste board, will this correct all this? Say Im off somewhere and I surface it, will it be flat and parallel and no adjustments needed?
yes but consider that a last step in making sure your bed is 100% level. First try to manually make the frame as square and level as possible.
If you see a difference front to back, adjust the Y rails height. The mounting holes in the plates should have some tolerances you can play with. If you notice a height difference left to right, do the same thing for the X extrusion.
Best way is to measure at least the four corners and the middle of your wasteboard. If that is as close to level as you can get it, THEN tram your wasteboard. Tramming ensures every point of your wasteboard is at the exact same distance measured from your router.
If you go deep enough, yes. But that’s pretty deep to go. It sounds like you’ve got something else out of sync. As others have stated, fix that problem first and then tram.
This could also be caused by the spacing between the lines on the vcarve. When using a V-bit it will only go down as far as it needs to cut between the lines and won’t always be the same depth, unless you set a flat depth for a vcarve.