Don't spoil your spoilboard

I came across this video

Anyone know how to set this up in Fusion 360 or Easel? The stumbling block for me is that if I am doing multiple passes how would this be calculated?

Prerequisits for “No”-Spoilboard

  • Skim cut spoil board
  • Router is in tram

So when preparing a carve, say for a 12mm thick material and you want to cut through:

  • Jog the bit down to the surface of your spoil board, command a 13mm lift. This make the distance above the spoil board known.
  • Jog in X/Y direction to your intended work zero position - In Easel this is your Home Position
  • Carve your design, set depth for thru-cut = 13mm

This will ensure the full depth = precisely spoil board surface.

If your 12mm work piece is actually 11,2mm or 13,5mm thick (or vary) and you zero from an arbitrary surface point of this material, carved to 12mm can give you under/overcut.

I don’t really get that.

A wasteboard is meant to be wasted. That’s why they are cheap replaceable pieces. Trying to ‘save’ the spoilboard is evidently possible as this fine chap shows, but ultimately not all that useful.

The finish on the bottom of his cuts doesn’t look like they are all that clean either.

Save yourself the hassle, cut 1mm into the spoilboard and never have a failed cut because of an all-or-nothing setup.

that’s my opinion though. :wink:


I use a scrap piece of plywood under the project and cut it 1mm deeper. Easier to replace the ply than the fancy waste board.
How did he cut those eggs out without tabs, it didn’t look like glue or tape was used?

They’ll figure it out. Especially when they are low on time and have LOTS of orders.

Set your wasteboard surface as -(stock thickness). The way I do it on through cuts (similar to Haldor):
Say I’m cutting a half inch (12.7mm) stock all the way through, I jog my endmill to the surface of the wasteboard and send G10L20Z-12.7
That sets the wasteboard as the full depth. It makes sense for your model to be slightly thicker, so you don’t cut too deep on the first pass if your stock isn’t perfectly flat.

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Don’t look like he used anything except securing the sheet itself. First operation carve the design, the later stage do the thru-cut where hold down isn’t that important (for that design)

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yeah for circular designs you don’t usually risk that much not using tabs. I do it often. I just make sure I’m in the vincinity when I’m closing in on final depth.

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I don’t know, but I recently have been using the Superglue and masking tape method with great success:

I’m guessing it was glued down, it just doesn’t seem to take any effort.

Yea, but it is a pain to replace. I don’t buy the inventables one, and have a bit of a custom machine. It is also super annoying to try to mill a PCB on a gnarly spoilboard. You have to surface the spoilboard in