hi all , just asking , when placing a filler at the end of a run of cabinet , can the filler be made to size , like if needed a filler 40 mm or 25 mm and can the filler be moved to the face of the door so its all inline
Hey Marc,
I know we already touched base about this over email, but I wanted to leave an answer here just in case anyone else has a similar question.
The answer to both questions is yes! If you click on the fillers listed in the left panel (or double-click on the filler in the 3D scene), you’ll be able to adjust the size and position of the filler panels to match your desired specifications. I included some screenshots below.
Click on the filler that you want to adjust:
Adjust your specifications as needed:
(note: I have my unit of measurement set to inches)
A two piece filler would be good. We make ours with two pieces formed into an “L” shape with a
70mm return then fixed from inside the cabinet… usually behind the Blum hinge plates.
Hi Paul, thanks for that idea. Is that a L shape when looking from the top of the filler? Is that so it makes it easier to attach the filler panel to the box? Assume that the face of the filler is flush across the gap, and the return is tucked behind, correct?
Hi Ben, Yes that is correct, we make our doors in 22mm + 3mm offset from the carcase face and set the scribes flush with the face of the doors. The scribes are joined with Domino’s and sent to site dry we attach the return to the carcase and screwed behind the hinge plates or use screw covers, the face is scribed with a U-Scribe jig and then glued in place. The jig makes this an easy and quick method,
Hey Paul,
On the image above, what do you do with the toekick? Is it a separate part that is put on after install as a long solid piece?
Thanks,
Jonathan
Hi Jonathan,
Yes it is separate…I think a drawing would explain it better.
I have an odd method for kitchen cabinets and bookcases which I have developed over the years.
I have 4 horizontal rails, the back 2 support the removable back and supports the base.
The front 2 hold the cabinet sides, the plinth is installed in long lengths and screwed in place though the back of the bottom rail.
The base sits on a batten fixed to the back bottom rail, the base has a short batten
that clips behind the front bottom rail, also the cabinet is supported on 4 adjustable metal legs that are fixed to the sides.
The back is held in place with 4 screws.
This method was developed for several reason.
- Without the base & back the cabinet is easier to move around in the workshop and on site.
- If the cabinets are veneered or painted it is far easier to do this without base & back.
- On site you often have and electrician or plumber that has forgotten to install something
probable the Audio installer can be a problem as they are often last on site.
Paul
Paul,
This is fascinating, I love the ingenuity and thought you’ve put into it. I take it this is in sketchup?
-Jonathan
Thank you Jonathan
Yes, it’s Sketchup
As they say a picture is worth a thousand words
Paul
I also meant the way you build cabinets, so much thought has gone into it.
I just recently started drawing things in SkecthUp and I dig it. Being able to draw out the room and all of the outlets, molding, etc., is awesome.