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Fully 3d printed NewBritt Dust Shoe

@AK_Eric Nice Job. If you can post as remix that would be great help for others requiring the changes. Thanks


Thanks again!

Update since I’ve been using this design for a while now : It’s been great, I can see not ever needing another one :wink: However, I found the “SIDE_LEFT.stl” and “SIDE_RIGHT.stl” prints would rub against bolts holding the z-gantry wheels into their channels, causing friction. Because of that, I modified those files to allow for ample space there, but not impact the design. Please find new side_right_channeled.stl / step & side_left_channeled.stl & step files on my thingiverse page.

Really like this design.

Would like to print it myself, but wonder if it fits the X-carve with the ‘new’ gantry design (I bought mine January 2017).



I myself have no idea (haven’t looked into what that new design is), but Inventables uploads all their models to grabcad: You could find both X-Gantry models, and see if there are any differences going on? Or just ask Inventables :wink:

Is this shoe stationary while the router plunges or does the entire unit, shoe+router plunge together?

shoe stationary while the router plunges

From my experience, shoe needs to be fixed. Attached to router doesn’t work very well.

I use the KentCNC dust shoe that attaches to the router and moves up and down as the machine raises and plunges. It works very well.

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So I realize this is kind of necrothreading but I really love this shoe (despite issues like the probe-clamp crunching into the side) and the lack of a X-plate cutout that prevents slamming into the X-axis during homing (I solved this with a small 3D printed bumper to trip the limit switch 30mm early.

However, for some reason (aesthetics I guess) printed this way back in the day in black plastic. Of course it is completely opaque, and I want to see what’s going on (and looking through the bristles seems dangerous every time I move them I feel like my fingers are going to get torn off if the router moves rapidly in Y. So while some people print in 3D and get reasonable clarity (I mean I do all the time on my Form 3 SLA printer, but something this size would be like $100 worth of clear resin), so acrylic is the way to go. So I took the the step file on thingiverse and created DXF->SVGs in OnShape. The dimensions are in SAE units (sorry, but Illustrator/Inkscape will happily translate for you, my laser prefers inch vs. metric).

Anyway here is the SVG cut file (deliberately left the material where the brush goes so you can use it during glue-up to get the bottom and top aligned. You can use 1/4" (6mm) or 1/8" (3mm) acrylic (there are no z-axis joints so it doesn’t matter - in fact you can mix and match with what you have - pandemic supply chain woes). Here is the SVG file (I put the CC attribution into the top sheet as an engrave (depending on your laser slicer software, you may need to futz with that - Sorry but I do feel strongly about attribution - plus every time I want to modify this I always forget how to find it on Thingiverse). Of course if you have a laser you could use something other than clear acrylic (just like on the X-carve). With acrylic I welded the 2 layers with weldon #3 and hot glue for the brush (2" brush from McMaster) and CA glue for the magnets.

Fixed Dust (58.2 KB)
Edit: Note: file was somehow corrupted on upload. This one is fixed


Completed (well before magnets) worked great on first carves and you can easily see.

Oh and of course pro-tip, when welding the layers together make sure the text is on top… In the final version file above I did move the attribution image to the back so it doesn’t interfere with seeing through the front part. And the brush border fits super snug into that slot (I pushed it into the slot with a small slot screwdriver - especially snag if you keep that alignment piece (the part that makes up the slot) when welding it up (that is ever so slightly smaller than the rubber gasket) Getting the very last part in was a really tough push, and I was worried the screwdriver could damage the acrylic or my hand, so I used a flat finish nail punch. I put a tiny dab of CA glue on the M5 nylock nuts that fit into the slots (enough to hold them in place when you flip it over) and the magnets just go in via CA glue.

The only mod I may make if I remake this (conserving thick clear acrylic as it is in very short supply right now with the pandemic and everyone making cough shields) is I might have layered crosshairs on the large hole to align to the X-Y origin.