Those Dust Deputys do a great job don’t they?
I don’t understand why the cyclonic feature has not been incorporated into a utility vac (shop vac)?
“I don’t understand why the cyclonic feature has not been incorporated into a utility vac (shop vac)?”
That would tank replacement filter sales.
1 Like
Nice job diagnosing this @Lexo the static electricity from the vacuum cleaner can be as much as 35,000 volts.
In my experience it isn’t static produced by the moving air that causes this problem. It’s having the dust extractor (or shop vac) plugged into the same circuit as the X-Controller. All I did was move the plug, I didn’t ground anything, and the problem went away.
This was driving me nuts until someone pointed it out to me…try plugging into a different circuit. I have 10amp outlets where the X-Controller is plugged in, and 15amp outlets where I plug in the dust extractor now. (I live in Australia, you may have different power ratings on your circuits depending on where you live, but it worked like a charm using a different circuit, Grounding was not the issue for me.)
In my experience it isn’t static produced by the moving air that causes this problem. It’s having the dust extractor (or shop vac) plugged into the same circuit as the X-Controller. All I did was move the plug, I didn’t ground anything, and the problem went away.
I had the same experience in the original configuration of my workshop. Turning on the dust extractor would cause my USB connection to drop until I plugged the dust extractor to a different outlet. It hasn’t happened since, and, like you, I haven’t made any other changes regarding grounding, etc.
1 Like
Great feedback all, I’m going to try and ground it anyways just in case using copper wire this weekend but until then I will definitely try moving the plug to another circuit. Right now all are on the same circuit (Controller,Vacuum, & Router). I hope i have another line that will work in my office that’s not out the way. this is why I come to this forum. I know that somewhere, someone, somehow, has gone through the same things as I go through.
Thanks.
1 Like
@Lexo, if the shed shares a wall with another room, and there’s an outlet or switch on that wall, you can try a dirty little trick I’ve used…punch a hole in the wall on the shed side, near the outlet or switch, and install a new outlet for your dust extractor. If you’re pulling power from a switched, make sure you tap into the wires before the switch or you’ll have people in the other room turning off the dust extractor. I don’t know if this advice breaks codes, and I would not do it myself in Australia (yes, 240V scares me a lot) but I have done it often with 120V when I was living in the US.
@MarioHerodotus That’s exactly what I did lol. but don’t these share the same circuit on other side of outlet from office? I’m going to switch the plug for the X-Controller to another outlet close by instead of of all on same. I have the Spindle and the cyclone vacuum on an autoswitch so I don’t have to go into porch to keep turning on vacuum.
Do you guys think this will be ok?
@Lexo, The existing and new outlets will share the same circuit. You’re concern is if the outlet where the X-Controller is plugged in shares the same circuit. The only way I can think toi test this would be to turn off the breaker where the X-Controller is plugged in and check if there’s still power to the new outlet.
I think that running spindle and shop vac on the same auto switch could be too much for the auto switch. Check rating of the auto switch.
I’ve been having the same problem. I put a scope on the limit switches and saw a bunch of noise when the motors were running. I ended up adding a 0.47uF capacitor across the limit switch inputs (one side is grounded, the other goes to the limit switch input). This solved the problem for me. This works because the switches are normally open so the capacitor acts as a filter.
Can you please send me the info for what you bought? Im actually still having this problem even with the vacuum off. I really starting to get annoyed that i cant run carves longer than 30min because it always loses connection and Im out of ideas.
Exactly 30min?
How is the USB manager of your PC set up, it doesnt put the USB into hiberniation does it?
I summarized my experience with stopping carves (and every information I could find in the forum here regarding that topic) here
Maybe some of these points are valid for you. I know finding the cause of the stopping can really be annoying, since I experienced some months of stopping carves. Hope my list helps.
1 Like
I inserted this board https://www.amazon.com/Electronics-Salon-Prototype-Shield-Arduino-Terminal/dp/B00UT0QLJA/ref=sr_1_13?ie=UTF8&qid=1537402157&sr=8-13&keywords=arduino+screw+terminal+shield between the Arduino and the gShield controller. The limit switches connected to the Arduino via the screw terminals. I then connected a 0.47mf ceramic capacitor between each limit switch / z-probe terminal and ground. I had some laying around – here’s an assortment similar to what I used. https://www.amazon.com/Hilitchi-0-1uF-100nF-Monolithic-Multilayer-Capacitors/dp/B07869G2Z8/ref=sr_1_2?s=industrial&ie=UTF8&qid=1537403173&sr=1-2&keywords=Hilitchi+720-Pcs+[0.1uF-100nF]+Dip
I ran several 1hr + carves yesterday and today. Most ran without problem, but I did have a couple of instances where the carve just stopped. On those failures, I looked at the error codes and didn’t see any messages about limit switches. Before I added the caps to the limit and z-probe, it was failing after only a few minutes and the error codes indicated limits had been hit. My gut feel is that the problems I’m seeing now are different than what I had before and not related to limit switch noise.