You might want to print out the GRBL settings from this link:
GRBL_Settings_Pocket_Guide_Rev_B.pdf (diymachining.com)
It explains all this stuff pretty well.
If you have home switches, you can home by changing the setting in $20, $21, $22, and 23.
Enable and Disable is a 0 or 1
Tyvm I saved it 
I have 20 and 23 set to Enable the other 2 disabled.
Is this standard for most people?
@MidgeDetro, I would recommend the following settings changesâŚ
Soft Limits - $20 = 1
Hard Limits - $21 = 0 (or 1) - Enabling Hard Limits is really only half valuable if you only have limit switches for homing installed. Hard Limits is really meant if you have limit switch on each end of each axis. Having the machine set up correctly, with respect to each axis actual distance of travel, and Soft Limits being enabled allows the firmware to provide similar functionalityâŚjust through programming.
Homing Cycle - $22 = 1
Homing Cycle Direction - $23 = 3 - This is typically the value required here, but it can vary just as $3 does (itâs possible values are the same). I see that you had it set to 3 early in this thread when I asked you to pull the settings. I would suggest returning $23 to 3 and starting from there.
Once you make these changes, I would recommend moving the spindle to the middle of the machine and then turn off the power to it. Turn the power back on after a few seconds.
Ensure each axisâ homing limit switch & associated activation stop is set up correctly such that the limit switch is activated prior to the maching crashing itself.
After the machine has powered back up, you will want to go to the âMachineâ menu option. You should see a button to Home Machine. Select that button and pay attention to the direction of travel for each axis. The Z-Axis should travel upward toward the limit switch, the gantry should travel to the left along the X-Axis, and the Y-Axis should travel toward the front (or toward each respective axisâ limit switch/limit switch stop). If they do not travel in the correct direction, hit the E-Stop or the machine will crash.
If this process completes with no issues, then the machine knows where its (0, 0, 0) point is in space. This is required since grbl uses work coordinates that are simply offsets from machine coordinates.
If any axis travels in the opposite direction look at the Axis Config. Table (also assocated with $3. You would have to see what the value of $23 is at the time noting what that makes each axis (YES or NO). Then you simply choose the number that that keeps the axis/axes the same that do not require changing and flips only the one(s) that do need changing. If you are interested in how this works in the firmware, we can have a side discussion about it later⌠
Based on your latest carve image, I think you might still benefit from further calibration, but letâs get this other stuff configured first.
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Brandon R. Parker
@BrandonR_Parker
Ok so when I set the soft limits it give me issues when Iâm jogging usually after about 7 moves down on Z. It just stops moving and freezes up. Alarm was either 2, 8 or 9.
Iâm going to post a new question about my wiring with a photo. It was something back in 2018 that was told to change Y axis and it worked great before my upgrade. Iâve tried a few times to change it with something nuts happening again. LOL
Also after I âHome Machineâ these are the #'s that are in Machine Inspector. Shouldnât they be at â0, 0, 0â?
All my homing switches work. Everything you sent me I followed just now. I also put the spindle into the center while running and shut it off a few seconds and turned it back on and homed it.
Every time I try and run a carve and after itâs finished and returns home, itâs literally off 2CM (20MM) or two squares on the spoiler board.
As you can see from this side photo when I Home it, it homes all the way to the front edge of the spoiler board. I moved it to the middle so you could see it. On the 2018 Xcarve there was a stop screw for the homing switch to hit both in the Y and Z. There isnât a way to do this with the TBD upgrade screw drive on Y or is there? My problem isnât with Y itâs with X being the 2cm or 20mm off on return to work zero after a carve.
Iâll go one more step on this. Wiring
The X Axis⌠one wire broke so I fixed it but canât find my solder gun so did a very good electrical tape job. See photo
Could these have anything to do with after a carve which are much better, being off that 2cm/20mm when it comes back to work zero?
Where is the X axis home switch? It looks like you are showing the Y axis home switch.
You can add a home switch by adding hardware if you needed to. For example, I 3d printed parts to hold home switches on my 3018. The first one is a holder for the Y axis table. The 3018 has a moving table.
The second photo is a bumper to hit the Z axis switch.
Double sided carpet or duct tape âmightâ be a possibility to hold some hardware in place if you donât have mounting holes. but a mechanical fastener would be preferable.
@MartinW.Mcclary Those are good! I could use the square. I left a oh little silver slide thingy in track on maker slide so I can put one screw there to attach a square. It just has to be one large enough and two things enough to fit in between the screw drive. I can measure it? Maybe one for X and Y and I can Venmo you the $. If you have orange would be great or whatever you have
Here is the X switch photo. There is a screw on back side.
I just canât figure out why after a carve it homes back to my work piece off 2cm (two squares on spoil board). I will keep calibrating it. I took the day off 3 straight days and many hours to try and fix this.
Did you happen to see this post? My machine and work position is in the negative. How do I get it to 0,0,0?
Have you checked to see if this is the problem?
This is the point where your starting machine position would be.
The way some X controllers were made, they give you negative numbers after homing. The reason being milling machines ( so Iâve read) had homing in the back of the machine from what the X carve looks like.
Do you reset all the zeros after homing?
I could make you a couple squares, but the hole positions are for the holes I found on the 3018 Z axis.
Is the switch on the X axis on the right and we are looking at the back of the makerslide?
IF so, it looks like it works and you can adjust the $27 to fewer mm on the retraction.
Also note that Machine position isnât work position. You can make work Zero where you want it to be.
Also regarding the bumper, those were just screws through aluminum spacers that Inventables sold. You can use really anything there as long as it is rigid. You could turn a wooden tubeâŚLOL. A 5mm bolt/stack of washers/ and insertion nut would work as well
No I havenât tried the $27=1.000 change. Because itâs so close to the end Iâm worried Iâll send smashing the switch if I input wrong #. Any suggestions? Would make me feel better.
Regarding your question if I reset all the zeros after homing. I donât know where to do this? I did get them all to zero once but them it lock the machine with alarm.
The switch on the X maker slide is on left facing machine.
And Iâll get right on that to spin one up. Hah. Iâll think of something. Twist a small L bracket. Hah
If it is set to 1âŚ1mm it is hitting the switch and backing up 1mm. Is that what it looks like? If so, change it to say12, it would back up about 1/2". Iâm just guessing here because I canât see the whole machine, but if you maybe changed it to 25.4, it might end up at your zero grid mark?
Here is regular Easel you can see the work position I selected for the lower right corner of my drawing. Again, I know very little about Easel because I use UGS on all my machines. UGS has a button that sets the zeros.
UGS display example reset zero at arrow
@MidgeDetro
Concerning the limit switch on the Y-Axis, as long as the limit switch is being triggered before the machine crashes then everything is perfectly fine. The X-Carve has the bolt fixed to the maker slide since it has belts and the belts have the little buckle that keeps them looped and secure at the end where they attach. The X-Carve has to avoid running into this with the V-Wheels.
Since the TBD upgrade does not have this bit to contend with, it can get closer to the end plate, and the limit switch can be triggered by contacting the end plate then there is that little bit more travel that you get out of the machine.
The numbers being negative are or no real consequence to the user. This is all in how the homing switches are configured on a machine with respect to where the working space actually is.
@MidgeDetro and @MartinW.Mcclary
What @MartinW.Mcclary is showing just above in Easel with the red arrow simply gives the user the ability to see where the coordinates are for each corner and the center as well as position the object/objects using each of these locations by inputting values when each is selected.
In Easel, the user does not âset zerosââŚ
The user homes the machine and this is what sets the machine (0, 0, 0) point; that is the exact purpose of having homing limit switches.
Prior to carving, Easel walks the user through setting the bit where the âWork Homeâ is based on their project. When the user goes through the items and either uses the last home position or sets a new home position, Easel command grbl to mark this machine position as the âWork Homeâ position which is, in reality in the firmware, just offsets from the âMachine Homeâ position.
When a project is sent to the grbl firmware, the gcode is created based on the file. You can choose âLeft Front Cornerâ or âCenterâ for the (0, 0, 0) âWork Homeâ. Typically, people start with the first which is the default. I would start with default.
The projectâs gcode creates machine movements to fulfill the milling of the design as movements with respect to âWork Homeâ and the movements are just offsets from what the grbl firmware has saved for the âWork Homeâ position.
Enough on that thoughâŚ
If your machine is moving in the general right direction for all axes, then that is a fantastic start.
If you are having issues after enabling Soft Limits, then the actual machine sizes in $130, $131, and $132 are probably not set up correctly. If it is stopping on movement of the Z-Axis then $132 needs to be adjusted. The TBD Z-Axis is much longer than the 100 mm that is shown in the settings you posted earlier in the thread. Figure out how far you can move it physically without it crashing it and set $132 equal to that value. Do the same for X and Y as well if you want to enable Soft Limits; I highly recommend you do with lead screwsâŚ
A properly calibrated machine should always return to the exact âWork Homeâ position (within tolerances) that it started from after completing a project unless it has crashed or is losing steps. If you are not carving anything, can you move it 10" to the right and 10" backward and see if the reverse actions place the machine in the exact place where you started? If it does not, then the calibration is still offâŚ
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Brandon R. Parker
I was thinking the same thing about setting $27 to 25.4.
I need to download UGS and learn it.
Thank you for finding those 2 links.
I will try the changes tomorrow afternoon and report backâŚ
Thank you so much!
And yes youâre correct the limit switch is only moving 1mm after homing is complete.
@BrandonR_Parker
Wow you both have been so helpful and supportive. I so appreciate it! Yes theyâre all noving in the right direction. Like I said itâs just off.
And I also think itâs in the $132, $131, $130
Yes Iâd love to do a chat. I can do Google meet? Let me know when youâre available and in your shop.
I thinks itâs close. And I cannot wait to start carving some things.
Thanks to you and Martin I have hope.
Iâll be available 1p to 4p tomorrow. 2/25
Ty ty
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