Following some of the tips/advice I’ve seen here on the forums I purchased a couple rolls of Oramask. Sanded my piece of wood, stained, applied the Oramask, and carved it. I did 3 different colors so used masking tape to mask off the sections that would be different colors. I ran into a small issue, though, when removing the masking tape to move to the next section, in that it kept peeling up the Oramask from the small parts of letters. Any tips to prevent this? Or perhaps a different way of doing it?
Are you using blue painters tape? That’s what I use and have not had a problem
I used regular beige masking tape. I’ll give the painters tape a shot. Thanks!
What type of stain (water or oil based) are you applying to the wood before you put the Oramask on?
Oramask 813 is for water based paints
Oramask 810 is for oil based paints
Oil based Minwax stain. I used Oramask 813s. It held perfectly through the carving. I used plain old masking tape to block off areas that I would paint a different color. It was when I peeled the masking tape off the oramask to go to the next color that I had the issue with it picking up small pieces (inside the “o”, etc).
I’ve never tried Oramask over stain, I have only used it over paint. But since you’re using Oil based Minwax maybe you could try the Oramask 810 next time. The solvents in the stain may be loosening up the bond between the Oramask and substrate.
I did put a coat of polycrylic over the stain and let it dry before applying the Oramask, if that makes a difference. I do happen to have a little 810, so I’ll give that and blue painter’s tape a shot.
Putting the polycrylic over the stain and letting it dry should be good. Hopefully the 810 will work for you
@RussellCrawford I am having a hard time finding 810 and I see there is an 810S that says its for the oil based paints. https://blog.signwarehouse.com/basic-guide-to-stencil-mask-use/
" ORAMASK 810, 811, and 813 are all 3 mil calendered films with low tack removable adhesives. 811 and 813 are for smooth, flat surfaces. Oracal designed 810 for flexible or uneven surfaces. You can buy it with a solvent based adhesive in the 810S version. The use of a removable solvent adhesive makes it more suitable for use with solvent based paints that may weaken the acrylic adhesives used in most stencil films."
I have read you do alot with this stuff, just wanting to get the right stuff to help keep the masking down while carving. I have read alot of threads on it and pretty sure that I m doing it correctly but I don’t get a clean cut in the masking with my V bit. Been carving in poplar recently and some oak plywood. Stain, shellac 2 coats at least, mask(credit card to remove air bubbles), carve and I m not getting a crisp cut on the masking.
If you’re applying shellac over the stain it should work good. I’ll sand the shellac with 400 between coats and sand with 400 before I apply the oramask. Make sure you clean all the dust off before you apply the oramask. I have been using the regular 810 becasue its easier to work with and haven’t had a problem with using latex or oil based paints. You can see when the oramask is stuck down, if all you have is a credit card then it might not be sticking down real good. I use my finger wrapped in a towel to go over everything to make sure its stuck down good. I use a hard squeegee to stick down the oramask
The bit you’re using will work good with the oramask.
I do have a finger and rag too. LOL.
May look for a squeegee to help out
I agree with what @RussellCrawford says and if you have some trouble getting it to stick set it out in the sun for a while or take a hair dryer and heat it a little then re roll it.
Thanks to all will give it a try