How do I get/download the cabinetmaker updates?
1 Like
Duane,
They should be automatic once they are live on easel, no downloading required. Some of the things like the “Jobs” tab have to be requested currently I believe.
-Jonathan
1 Like
Thanks, Jonathan! Wasn’t sure how that worked. Looking forward to learning cabinetmaker. Wife wants new kitchen cabinets, so I’m going to practice by building a couple for my shop/garage.
Duane,
No problem dude. Sounds like a fun project. I would say you’re doing it right. Learn the ins and outs of how things cutout on the cnc and fit together before you go all in on your whole kitchen. Pay attention to how cabinets will butt into a wall and what that will look like as well as how the cabinets will interact with base molding. Take your time and buy extra plywood for re-dos. Also, make sure to think about sagging, frameless cabinets don’t have a faceframe for the extra support across the width span of the cabinet. That means shorter (width) uppers and maybe extra toekick support on base cabinets if you’re going for longer widths than say 24-30 inches. Just my two cents!
Good luck and have fun!
-Jonathan
1 Like
I think you have to reload the web page. The entire program runs in the browser so the program is server side - refreshing may do it, it may do it on the fly, but closing the tab and starting a new tab would be a sure fire way of updating.
1 Like
Thanks for the heads up on the sagging. Right now I am looking at two cabinets 24" wide with two doors each. I will be storing spray paints, cleaning supplies, epoxy and such in them so since these are “practice” ones I might as well go with the frame route. Now I just have to find a good paying job for my wife to I can buy the plywood!! LOL 
My plan for the shelves in my shop is to cut them a bit shallow and add a ~1” lip glued to the front edge, which should significantly increase their strength.
Man I’ve been waiting for plywood to come back down in price but geez…almost $100 for a sheet of 3/4"!
1 Like
That sounds like a good idea. I’ve drawn some uppers for my home office and I was going to add a hardwood lip under the front edge for some LED strips, I didn’t even think about it adding stability as well.
2 Likes
Good idea. Thanks.
Yup. That is where finding a job for my wife comes into play!!! LOL
Where do you live?
Around here it is $60 for crap and $90 for hardwood plywood
I only use the good stuff for the house and even then if the sides can’t be seen i use the crappy stuff - mainly use the red oak for the drawer fronts and everything else has edge banding so it really doesn’t matter especially if you can’t see the sides.
Good ole south GA. 
I think I can get red oak for about $97 with tax from big box stores. Wish we had a local plywood supplier. I can find hardwood but not plywood. I’ve thought about checking with a local cabinet shop to see if I could buy off of them but I just haven’t wanted to get into that yet.
Oh, real close to me - I am in Charleston
Yeah, big box store unfortunately
I have 2 large lumber mills and can get all the hardwood I want, but their prices for plywood are insane
$125 for sanded
$175 for birch/maple/red oak
So, it is orange or blue for those…I typically buy from orange and buy the cheapest stuff for shop cabinets and the carcasses that can’t be seen.
Yikes, that’s highway robbery!
Here in Idaho about the best deal is 18mm - Sande Plywood ( 3/4 in. Category x 4 ft. x 8 ft.; Actual: 0.709 in. x 48 in. x 96 in.) for $65.65 at Home Depot. Not the best ply but the price is reasonable.
Man, bring those prices down here, lol.
That is essentially what I pay ($53 to $65 typically) and what i use in 85% of cabinet builds. Especially if i am painting the sides or you can’t see them and I use edge banding to hide the real ugly.
Funny enough they typically have less voids than hardwood plywood IME