It's Alive

Ah, maybe it was just the abort I saw. If those are supported they I will most likely add them as buttons on the remote then also.

@ErikJenkins in the UGS Platform version you can configure the “Soft Reset” shortcut to send 0x18 (aka CTRL-X).

If you try the nightly build the cancel button now does the soft reset automatically.

How are you interacting with UGS?

@WillWinder

I am emulating a USB keyboard and sending the commands directly to the Command box in the nightly build of the of the Classic GUI.

For example for a short move in the X direction I am sending: G20 G91 G0 X0.01

go to work zero of all Axis: G90 G0 X0 Y0 Z0

to Zero just the X-Axis: G10 P0 L20 X0

and so on…

1 Like

@WillWinder

Is there anyway to send the CTRL-X through the command box? It would be great if a ^X could be recognized as a CTRL-X and sent that way :slight_smile:

You should be able to send the ASCII codes for control X

1 Like

I can send a ctrl-X, but the command box in UGS does not accept it. In any format I have tried.

My pendant is assembled now. The pendant is acting as a standard USB HID device and sending commands to Universal G-Code Sender through the command entry field. The pendant works with both UGS Classic and UGS Platform (nightly builds).

Box complete, glued up, painted and clear coat.
Button matrix wired and soldered in place. (4 x 7 matrix with 28 buttons)
I used an Arduino Due for the brains of the box.

All buttons function perfectly except for the Abort button (I will keep working on that one).
I added two LEDs, one will be an indicator for a shift button. I will use the lower right button as a shift key to allow a total of 4 jog increments.
Currently the jog buttons move 0.01" and 0.1".
I will add 0.5" and 1" once I add the shift key.

The second LED is waiting for a purpose.

I also need to mark the buttons so I remember what they all do :slight_smile:

If I find I am not using certain buttons, I can change their function at any time.

Here are my buttons currently:
Go To Work Zero X, Y, Z
Go To Work Zero X
Go To Work Zero Y
Go To Work Zero Z
Home the machine
Zero Z-Axis with Probe
Zero All Axis with Probe (1/8" bit)
Park at G28
Park at G30
Zero X Axis
Zero Y Axis
Zero Z Axis
Cycle Start
Feed Hold
Abort
Shift
And 12 Jog Buttons 4 for each axis.

8 Likes

That is a nice piece of kit! Nicely done.

Can you use the second LED to indicate when the machine is homed, so you don’t accidentally send it into the rail with the G28 or G30 command

1 Like

Not sure how, but since I hit the home button first thing, every time I turn it on…I should be good :slight_smile:

1 Like

Wow, this is very impressive. Nicely done.

1 Like

Ordered some new belts for my Z-Axis. I ordered some from Misumi. I got 5 belts for $25 dollars, you never know when you will need a spare :slight_smile:

I got the 10mm belts, Polyurethane with steel cord. These fit perfectly and z-axis motion is good. I’ll see how they do. Here are the ones I got:

http://us.misumi-ec.com/vona2/detail/110302654070/?HissuCode=TTBU200T5-100&PNSearch=TTBU200T5-100&searchFlow=results2products

Maybe try to engrave the buttons? A laser would be best but I’ll bet it could be done with the proper model of the curved surface and a taped down button.

1 Like

If you beak a belt… just turn that frown (stepper motor) upside down! I have a similar Z axis, and removed that stepper bracket. Then mounted the stepper motor on top of the existing plate using a shaft coupler. It does make your machine taller, but there are fewer points of failure. On the other hand, those belts look cool.

1 Like

I thought about mounting it like that, but I wanted some of the weight over the gantry, not sure if it makes a difference or not, but that was the idea.

what is your experience with those Z-stages? Any good? Backlash?

I really haven’t noticed any backlash. I do like it a lot, the motion is incredibly smooth. I went with this one to get additional Z-axis movement to go with my taller endplates.

This is my 2nd and it is perfect. Rock solid and no detectable backlash. My first was made of stamped metal, was not as rigid and had an acme screw that made my plunge rates painfully slow. IMHO this is vastly superior to anything was able to accomplish with v-wheels. Look for fast travel models that travel the length you need. Most have nice bearing blocks that you can drill and tap to accommodate your existing router mount.

I was going to post a link, but I can’t find my exact model. Use Erik’s picture as a reference:

http://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_from=R40&_trksid=p2050601.m570.l1313.TR10.TRC2.A0.H0.Xz+axis+.TRS0&_nkw=z+axis+&_sacat=0

1 Like

@GlennCoates

Cut another batman from your file. This time in Pine.
I used:
1/4" endmill to pocket, rough and cutout at 100 IPM with a 0.125" DOC
1/4" ballnose to finish at 125 IPM.

8 Likes

I don’t care it is pine or walnut, every wood comes alive on your hands. :blush:

4 Likes

Thank you Alan.

1 Like