You don’t have the proper Com Port # and or, the correct 115200 baud rate set.
hahaha english…i am retarded when it comes to this
So i downloaded the new firmware and this is what came up
First connect to the Com Port using PicSender. After connecting, select the GRBL Settings button. Copy & Paste the grbl settings into a text file. The curser will be a line through a circle, but you can still highlight them with a left click & drag to copy them all. You will need this settings when changing to the J-Tech firmware.
Close the Com Port in PicSender. You will then need X-Loader to flash the new firmware to the UNO.
I deelpy apologize for my inability to make sense of this, but i checked my com port and also the baud rate and they are identical…why wont it connect.
Good question. Try closing PicSender and reboot your PC and try to connect again.
well that worked thank you! noe on to my next question(s):
- Is there a way to see the overall picture size before running the programt?
2). Since I downloaded the new Arduino fireware my laser will not turn on?
3). Now that the port was closed and the new flash was uploaded thru the xpadder how do i run the program?
PicLaser will give you the engraving size. The J-Tech grbl firmware uses S0-S255 commands to vary the laser power, not Z commands. You also have the feedrate set to 0.
First you should set the Gcode Dir. location. Then select the yellow GRBL button to make the grbl changes for your machine. Did you save them to a text file? Here are some other changes that needs to be made.
That make sense now so because the z0 commands are in there the laser is not activating… Also I ell mess around with it a little more to see how much further I can get. This is quite the learning curve
There is a Tutorial in the PicLaser Help menu and the Info button bottom right in PicSender.
I want to thank John and Jeff at PicEngrave for the great customer service they provide. If you search the forum, you will see their patients on making sure the users of their software understand how to use it. They are also there when people are trying to make a laser work with their XCarve.
This is why their software is worth every penny you pay!
@HalfNormal i couldn’t agree more I starting messing around with my laser for the first time his morning and had no idea what to do or how to use it. Although I ran out of time today I got much further with their help than I would have on my own. Learning a completely new language is very difficult.
@picengravertoo I think it would be great to post a video of taking a photo from the Internet and running it through the entire process to get the code generated, the conversion to the jtech firmware, all the adjustments in both pic laser and pic sender, etc. as I know the tutorials are very useful, but some with little electrical and computer program background (such as myself) need a visual of what to do. Aside from that I couldn’t be happier with the assistance you provided me today to get where I’m at. I can’t wait to run my first program with the laser to see what it can do[quote=“ToddLumpkin, post:1, topic:24957, full:true”]
3.8W J Tech Laser. 40 IPM, full power. Created design with VCarve Pro and used the J Tech post processor to generate the G-Code.
Here is my custom laser mount
what are some materials people have tried laser engraving? I did some oak last night and it turned out awesome i want to try some additional stuff…
Foam? (will the varying laser give you almost a 3D image from melting the foam?)
I was wondering if there are any detailed instructions on how to incorporate and use the T Tech Laser. I am located in North Plainfield, NJ and would be willing to pay for training / instructions to get my 1000mm X-Carve also laser engraving.
Never mind I realized J-Tech did that for us.
how did you get the laser to vcarve? or did you vcarve first and then run the laser on top it?
There was no V-carving on the cutting board. Just laser. Maybe you are confused because I said I used VCarve Pro to design the pattern.
looking at the pic, the big T looks like it was done with a vbit, i was wondering how you got that effect with the laser or is it just the angle of the pic?