Looking for a air blower system

I’m looking for a simple solution for making a air blowing system for my X-Carve. For cooling and blowing away dust and chips. I’m using a Makita on my X-Carve.

I am thinking aquarium pump and maybe one of those Mist Coolant Lubrication Spray Cooling System DIY thing found on eBay. Without using the lubrication. Only the air.

Do you have any tips and tricks regarding this?

I am using this one - obtained from www.biltema.no :slight_smile:
They no longer carry this one but this size/type can found in similar places.
Noise level is low, on par with the Makita @ setting 1.
I cut mainly aluminium dry and can not feel any heating on the bit itself (3mm Helix 3F - 1400mm/min - DOC 0.1mm)

What do you use in the other end of the tube?
Do you have one of those mist cooling things there?

I was also thinking of the compressors for air brushing.

I just used some 3mm (1/8") brass tubing I had on hand, bending it into position.
Outlet is approx 20mm away from the bit and clears just about everything from stock. Since the pressure/air velocity is relatively low the dust/fragments doesnt travel much outside the wasteboard. (I dont have a dust collection system yet)

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What do you think of a compressor like this one?

http://www.revell.de/fileadmin/processed/csm_39136__S_M_P_W_KOMPRESSOR_STARTER_CLASS_22509df2e9.jpg
http://www.revell.de/en/products/airbrush/compressors/id/39136.html

Do not use anything that has a diaphragm in it.
They do not last and they sputter
You need to know how much CFM output you require.
As an air brush artist I can say that these will not cut it for painting and thats significantly less than what you are looking for.
There are 2 routes here

  1. A good quite type compressor. The one I have is meant for T-shirts but would have enough power to provide pressure to knock out the chips even from the deep cuts. (Note: Some compressors do not come with a water trap. You may need to buy one.)

  2. A CO2 Tank. Not too expensive to refill this and initial cost is above $100 but worth it if you want a good steady non interrupted air flow. (Note: This setup will not have water in the line. As an added bonus the air running through your hose will get very cold and even build up frost which will create a cooling effect in the line that will blow cold CO2 out. Just make sure your fittings can handle the cold.)

Compressor I use for airbrush mainly is this one and its really quiet(They do make higher capacity ones as well):

You can get a C02 Tank from a lot of places. They are easy to get refilled. Last time I filled mine it cost me $35 and the tank lasts a long time. I would suggest a 20 lbs one. You also need a regulator.

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Thnx a lot :blush:

What about this one. It’s on sale for $115 in Norway.
I will for the very most part work with wood, not metal/alu.

Niko K1/4-F50D

This is only good for wood dust. and you can’t set it too high or the compressor will overheat.
I didn’t think about metal. If you are going to do metal cutting you need higher air pressure and a larger tank.
The larger the tank the more air storage and the less time the compressor will run. (Note: the compressor will need to be rated to run and supply what you need and fill the tank at the same time for it not to run all the time.)

You may have to go with a much larger unit. (Cost is more but will last a very long time.)
This is what one looks like if I were to go out and buy one.
http://www.homedepot.com/p/Industrial-Air-60-Gal-Stationary-Electric-Air-Compressor-ILA3606056/202053060?cm_mmc=Shopping|THD|G|0|G-BASE-PLA-D25H-AirCompressors|&gclid=COrQ-eDbzNACFUG4Gwod444NyA&gclsrc=aw.ds

Sorry for the confusion.

The way these things work is this.
The physics of the compressor is its flow and its ability to withstand back pressure.
The flow is how much volume can it get into the tank per min and how much pressure can it handle coming back as the tank is filled. If you use a piston compressor which is most. the size of the piston and its cavity are what makes up the flow and the seals and strength of the motor will relate to the ability to resist the back pressure.
So getting a larger unit with more volume means it can fill that 60 or so gallon volume fast and the compressor will come on and turn off either every 30 min or longer depending on the air flow on your machine. You can get a high PSI with low air flow and it will dislodge those metal bits in a cavity cut and help cool the bit. The time you have with constant air flow is a relation to the tank size and the total PSI (Mos tanks sizes are limited to about 200 PSI or less. Depends on the cost)
60 gallon or better would be best.

So I would suggest saving up for the better larger tanks. They can be put in a box with venting to kill most of the noise. (Most have DB ratings that you can use as a judge for the noise output)

I am going to work on figuring out how to check what is needed based on the tube and length of hose used. I need to do this for myself as well. I have a compressor and C02 tank already and I will just get a flow meter and start investigating. I will post more.
The above link for the large compressor is not a requirement but rather a guess atm.
I will get you better info as I check this out in more detail.

Overheat protection is important. My California Air Tools unit bit the dust after 1 year of service. SUCKS. Also, this is dirt cheap and has outlasted two compressors:

Between 5 and 10 psi is plenty, and your compressor will still cycle on and off a lot.

I’ve heard compressors out of fridges are useful. I don’t know if for continuous cycle though.

Can I ask why you want to blow the chip away instead of a dust boot. If you will mainly be working with wood then a dust boot would be better suited for your needs.

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Very good question @CurtisCummings :slight_smile:

I have a vacuum cleaner from Makita, so maybe it will be good enough for me to have a dust boot.
A dust boot and a blower will be chaos :smiley:

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Using a vacuum cleaner for continous cycle may be a receipt for fire btw - they are not designed to be used for hrs continously. The wound up power wire might also not be too happy with high power/long cycles.

Rolled power wire with current running through act as a coil and will heat up, increased heating will increase the coil resistance further augmenting heat build-up.

Just a heads-up! :slight_smile:

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The Makita vacuum cleaner is made for this kind of use. To be connected to tools. It has a 30 litre tank and can be used for dust and water.

http://www.staypro.no/product/byggtilbehor/industristovsuger/nettdrevne-stovsugeere/makita-vc3011l-vat--og-torrsuger?gclid=Cj0KEQiA6_TBBRDInaPjhcelt5oBEiQApPeTFxEejbirGTIUsZt48VV_ghDZkXlHWD6Uga9c40smkHcaAiQW8P8HAQ

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I have this Gebe Poweair 50L 3Hp compressor in my garage. I think the solution must be to use this one if blowing must be done.

I had hoped to find a mutch smaller and liter compressor to bring with me inside the house.

Next project is making a bracket for the vacuum cleaner for my Makita router. I’ll guess someone has done that before and I can find some tips here on the forum :blush:

Blowing wood dust allover your shop does not seem like a very good idea. First it will make a real mess and more importantly you do not want the fine wood dust to be in the air you are breathing. Get a good dust shoe and dust collector.

If you really want a forced air stream to remove chips from the cut then you will need to build an enclosure around the entire X-Carve that will contain all the dust.

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Yes, I agree. Blowing dust is only fun the first 5 seconds :slight_smile:

Project dust shoe has started. The Suckit - Amazing CNC dust boot on Kickstarter seems to be a good solution.

Less strain on Z and does not hang on the router.

The question is, will it work with the Makita router?

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Closed cycle has potential for thermal issues. I was thinking of the exhaust off my Bosh Colt, but considered that any reduction of airflow would heat up the motor.