Making your own powerful Controller on the cheap side

NO Way! How would it build up? Where?
Edit: Sorry off topic.

If that’s the case then what can I do to avoid it? Besides Shielded wires for everything outside the box. What about shielding the vfd wire?

Plastic is an insulator so charges that build up cannot flow away. The fast moving particles in the vacuum stream build up charges on the plastic the way rubbing a rubber balloon across your hair does.

I would not worry too much about any of it other than putting the filters on the homing switches and probe input.

If you are not going to use metal ducts for the dust collection then you can run a bare wire along the plastic duct and ground it. (earth ground)

Then if you have problems with the setup you can address each issue as it comes up.

I’m running with just shielded wires for my stepper motors and shielded wires for the homing switches and probe input. No filters. I don’t have dust collection yet, but with my current setup I don’t have noise problems.

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I want to make my controller all in one. I have seen many different CNC machines where the vfd is cuddling up to the stepper controllers. Wouldn’t the vfd spit out a ton of interference?

May or may not. All depends on the quality of the VFD. Plastic cases are not very good for electronic devices as they do not suppress interference. The old metal case products didn’t have near the problems that the modern equipment has.

Here is a picture of my controller (not as pretty as Phil’s, but still kicks butt).

I don’t use a VFD, but you can see how close the AC main, SSR, and 24 volt power supply are to the other components. No issues with noise.

Makita_CNC_controller

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You were comment #666

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Will this work?

Or does the drain need to go elsewhere?

Good catch. Thanks.

This.

Pictorial_Low_Pass_Filter

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Getting cont on ground. And getting a R value of 91 on d12 to the term.




A lot of those solder joints look questionable. If you have problems getting the homing switches or probe working, check the solder joints for the failing switch.

I checked continuity.

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Not sure how to get better connections between the holes on the shield?

It helps to tin the pads and leads separately first. Make the stripped end of your wire leads as short as you can, about an eighth of an inch. I’d wick some of those larger beads if possible.

I have a nice station with a fume extractor and some bells and whistles. The problem is the solder does not want to jump the gap, so I used the leads from the components bent over to bridge the gap.

Tryout layout for my controller.
Wachu tink?

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Are you going to have the computer control your VFD (and cooler) ? (auto position on switch?)

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I’m still debating that since easel still does not natively support extra functions or post processing.

I would love to, but there is no way to save parameter profiles on the vfd. If there was I could do a manual and auto profile.

Was quick and dirty to see the size, colors and layouts. If it looks too simple I’ll be adding extra switches to use up all my extras and to maybe add some manual functions. (Water cooling, lights, etc…)

Not sure why you would need to (I don’t have a VFD).

There are several people on the forum that are controlling their VFD with grbl.