Making your own powerful Controller on the cheap side

Thanks. So what frequencies are we talking about for signal vs noise? I’ve seen mentions of a 500Hz cutoff, and these values which yield, if my math is correct, a almost 160kHz cutoff.
Also, what sort of response times are ideal for something like a limit switch or probe?
Thanks again!

I see that you have 3 cooling fans in your cabinet design, did you find that you actually needed 3 fans? How hot do the drivers get in practice?

I’m in the process of designing up a version of your cabinet and have gone for 80mm 33CFM fans. What size did you end up using?

Thanks.

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Yes. Gives you a 6.25 uSec cutoff. Anything faster than 6.25 uSec would be attenuated.

Ideally, you would want an instantaneous response to a switch closure (assuming NO switches).

As to the requirement for a pulse on the wire to be considered as noise, that depends on the application. You don’t want to penalize switches that turn on fast, but you want to eliminate parasitic pulses on the wire.

It’s a trade off.

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So I went overkill? Cuz there is enough airflow through the fins that I was gonna use them as main air intakes possibly. But I just got my hands on some juicy 110v case fans that may blow my mind once I plug them in so we shall see.

Would NC switches be better?

Do the fins get hot during long carves?

You are a special case. :grin: I’ve never encountered another situation where there was a noise problem worse than yours.

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He is a big man. Usually they are louder. :grin: Even when soft spoken. :heart_eyes: But still a brutal Typer. Hmmmm now u got me wondering. Something about carrying big sticks.

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There are trade offs. Each configuration has it’s strengths and weakness. Pick your poison.

What are the side effects of each poison?

I use the TB6560´s which have smaller and lighter cooling fins, they get warm/hot during long runs but dont struggle.
With larger fins and active airflow I would´nt worry :wink: Just make sure there is open vent on the other side :wink:

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Just a couple of points.

Normally Open

Good:
does not draw any current when inactive
does not stress the return spring when inactive

Bad:
Contact bounce when activated
wire to switch can be broken which makes the switch appear to be open even when the switch is closed

Normally Closed

Good:
No contact bounce when activated
broken wire will appear as an open switch

Bad:
Draws current when inactive
Stresses the return spring when inactive

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Phil, I corrected an auto-correct in previous post, it was meant to read “would´nt” lol…! Sorry :wink:

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Does it matter how large the capacitor is for the low pass filter? 47 vs .47??
@LarryM

Yes.

Which design are you going to use?

Phil’s design shown on the Arduino picture, or the Inventables one?

No idea. Whatever works. Reliable. Or easier.

Use the Inventables one then.

Note: you need a 0.01 uF capacitor and a 100 ohm resistor for each homing switch and the probe input.

Phil had really bad noise so we had to use the big hammer at the expensive of responsiveness.

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Got it. Thanks. Does the capacitor have a handing?

Some do and some don’t. I would recommend ceramic capacitors for this application. They are not polarized.

Most electrolytic capacitors are polarized and if you hook them up backwards, they tend to explode.

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What would be the largest sources of “noise” in the system?
Any order?
VFD?
Power supply?
Spindle?
Dust extractor?

All of the above can produce interference. If you get a good power supply it is probably the least worry.

Don’t forget about static electricity on dust collector hoses. The plastic ones make really good Van DeGrafff generators (20 to 30 thousand volts, easy).

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