We use cookies to personalize content, interact with our analytics companies, advertising networks and cooperatives, and demographic companies, provide social media features, and to analyze our traffic. Our social media, advertising and analytics partners may combine it with other information that youāve provided to them or that theyāve collected from your use of their services. Learn more.
Hey Everyone,
I am using a 1/8 2 flute downcut bit to thru cut 1/2 inch MDF can anyone give me the ideal setting to get this job done fast? I do not have the stiffening mod on my machine.I have done a ton of reasearch and cant seem to get a concrete answer.
Dewalt Number Setting?
Feed Rate?
Plunge Rate?
Depth Per Pass?
Any help on this topic would be greatly appreciated!
iāve gone as fast as 100-130 ipm @ .0625 depth (think i went as deep as .1 for one job without any real issue.)
my best adviceā¦ make a series of test. I generally start with some conservative numbers and have 8 cut paths setup as squares that get progressively more aggressive. Itās a mix of doc and feedrates to find that sweetspot. once you find itā¦ then note it and move on.
is anything loose? can you move/rattle the carriage or other axis by hand. Until I reversed my screws and bolts to better secure the eccentric nuts my vwheels gave me problems all the time.
also, are you doing climb or conventional milling? Climb will cause chatter with this machine since itās not rigid enough so make sure to use conventional.
Iāve always used the stock MDF Setting in Easel, itās always been quick enough for me. Mind you Iāve never really been in a hurry. Cutting any other material I like to mess around with the settings a bit.
40ipm is insanely slow, especially at the default doc.
iām running a 3d carve right now and the roughing with 1/8" was at 135ipm. the DOC of first pass was a little over the diameter. no issues. Probably could have pushed it to 160.
my finishing pass is going at 180 ipm with no issue right now.
even at this speed, itās a 3 hour job (1 for rough 2 for finish) at 40ipmā¦ it would be around 8.5 hours for the finishing alone.
I posted my rates to demonstrate what is possibleā¦
RobertCanning has a pointā¦ I do recommend way faster only if your machine is tuned and you have any kinks worked out first. if your machine is solid and you know your toolpaths are good, then you should have no issues. To get to those speeds, i incrementally tested by setting up multiple toolpath test. it was a grid of 2 inch square profile paths. each column was a test at a certain DOC with different feed rates. the next column would be a different DOC than the first but the row would have the same feed rate as the previous. i would mark checks and xās to find what failed and what passed.
from there, I proceeded with running jobs with passed settings along with tuning my machine in order to stabilize any issues. As a note, this was all run on an original Xcarve (the only modification was bolts vertically between the two x rails to give more rigidity). I now have upgraded the x rail and I run no less than 85ipm depending on curves. the more curves a part has, the slower iāll run it. (probably donāt really need to, but it does concern me a bit for nowā¦ i suppose itās from previous experiences when the wheels would loosen up and practically fly off)
Another note: this may make a few cringeā¦ I have to admit, I cringe when I think thisā¦ but it gives me the courage to try to push my machineā¦ I put it togetherā¦ therefore, I can figure out how to fix it when things go wrong. It sucksā¦ but generally I discover a weakness that I can improve upon which makes future jobs that much more secured.
Always use a straight-cut bit or a V-bit. MDF is very fibrous and youāll end up pulling up the layers, etc. I donāt recommend a down-cut bit because the material doesnāt clear without a super strong vacuum dust collector and youāll end up clogging up the traces and it might affect your carve.
There are different qualities of MDF and that might make a difference. I learned this when I was making a poker table and the warehouse didnāt have the ānormalā quality MDF and ended up buying a higher quality which looks finer and smoother. My problem is with the insides of letters such on Aās or Pās flaking off when vcarving. Iāve tried to soak the MDF with sealer before cutting but does not change things.