Power supply requirements then are 24V for a gshield based controller and 48V for the G540.
The G540 will certainly run with 24V but the steppers will have a slower top speed which could be more important on a bigger machine.
I agree with the building stuff, it’s more fun than using the end product.
Does anyone happen to know if the 24v and the 48v PSU sold by INVENTABLES, are the same size? Or is the 48v PSU in a lager case?
This style of power supply are the same physical size and have the mounting holes in the same location.
Thank you. Just wanted to make sure that if I swapped out the g-shield with a gecko and upgraded the PSU, that the PSU unit will fit. The Gecko can be displaced by removing the XYZ terminal strips, since I can technically remove them and wire plug to plug. Still leaves me with plenty of room in the case.
Why would you use grbl with a Gecko?
So I can experience the joys of Windows and Easel 
Good valid point.
So I have been looking at Mach 3, is this software similar to what UGS and Chilipepper do? Of course those don’t come with the machine control through parellel ports. I am referring to the software side.
Please correct me if I am wrong here but the typical work flow would go something like this.
Napkin-CAD-CAM-Mach3(software)-parallel port-G540-steppers/machine
Mach 3 translates the g-code into movement instructions for the steppers via the G540 so it’s fulfilling the same function as grbl
So the same function as GRBL and UGS/Chilipepper, right? Mach 3 has the GRBL(type software) and a G-Code sender.
Bundles everything up into a “package”
Mach 3 doesn’t send g-code, it gets the g-code sent to it.
You do need some way to get the g-code as generated by your CAM program, onto the Mach3 computer.
A Windows share would be the easiest way to do this.
I figured that most users here would be more familiar with Windows.
I use Samba (being an all Linux shop). Not sure I’d remember how to set up NFS any more, my Solaris days were a long time ago.
Thank you for the clarification
where did you get the emergency stop button ?
I have had good results using a throwaway clear plastic deli take out box as a dust shoe. The plastic is snappy, deforms and rebounds easily and is quite robust. It is very clear so you can see whats going on. I cut it with scissors up the sides at the conveniently spaced ridges to create “fingers”. When it runs into things it just deforms and rebounds. cut a round hole in the bottom (top now) the same size as the router and another one for the vacuum hose nozzle. It can slide up and down on the router shaft.
The Estop buttons came from INVENTABLES.
I have two Estops on my system. This ment that I had to buy 4 Estops to get the configuration that I wanted. I wanted to use 2-poles both supplying power until the button is pushed. The switches come with an open(NO) and a closed(NC) contact. Since I needed 2 of the same, I had two order double the amount of switches to swap out the poles on the backside.
Now I have 2 switches that don’t supply power until the button is pushed in. These will go into my tool chest for future use. They probably won’t do to good as an Estop switch since the plug has to be pulled out to stop the power supply. These will make good power buttons for something.
Mind sharing a photo of your dust shoe?
I have since stop using the dewalt ring to hold the deli carton in place. the plastic is so rigid and snappy it stays in place by catching on the grooves on the router shaft. this makes it semi adjust able on the fly and just snaps in and out of place.
That’s another 5 HP for the router! 
And for any of those wondering how it obtained its name: My Father’s name was Sam and we were Fans of Rambo while I was growing up. Since my Father was my hero from a young age, he obtained the nick name Sam-Bo when I was just a small child and it just stuck. Even my Grandfather started calling him that. I built this CNC while I was caring for him during his final months. This is how it obtained its name, a way for my Father to carry on and continue helping me in my shop.
