Menerso build and mods

Here is a quick run down of my X-Carve 500 build. I used OnShape.com for a lot of the parts. You can get a free membership and download all the parts in .stl or .dwg or .dxf. Just do a search for “X-carve” and my models will show up.

Mods:

  1. reversed and flipped y-axis drag chain (to reduce space)
  2. flipped x-axis drag chain (to reduce space)
  3. encased all wires in Techflex (even the DeWalt DW611 power cable)
  4. used Molex connectors on x-axis and z-axis
  5. replaced front and back with wider extrusions (25" long)
  6. added two more extrustions under the waste board (for stiffness)
  7. panel plugs for XYZ cables (http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00G9KMKJ4?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s00)
  8. added a power plug (removed the board off the power supply)
  9. added an E-Stop (http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00548585A?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o08_s00)
  10. USB extender (which was too long) (http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00FSYBKPM?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o08_s00)
  11. added a solid state relay to drive the DeWalt (http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00HUBZO7Q?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00)

3D prints:
Here is my Thingiverse link (Thingiverse - Digital Designs for Physical Objects)

  1. z-axis knob (Z Axis knob for X-Carve CNC by iliketomakestuff - Thingiverse)
  2. x-axis mounts (Drag Chain Mounts - Inventables X-Carve by stevenholland - Thingiverse)
  3. y-axis mount (X-Carve reverse drag link bracket by menerso - Thingiverse)
  4. hold down (CNC Clamp by vishnubob - Thingiverse)
  5. hold down knob (Customizable Thumb Knob - Metric by Harrison - Thingiverse)
  6. DeWalt fan diverter/knife holder (DeWalt 611 Air Diffuser ver 3 by menerso - Thingiverse)
  7. power supply mounts (Power Supply Bracket by menerso - Thingiverse)
  8. controller drag chain mounts (X-Carve Drag Chain Mounts (controller) by menerso - Thingiverse)
  9. solid state relay cover (SSR Solid State Relay cover with clips by mtbox - Thingiverse)

Cabinet:
• I used some 8020inc 1010 rounded t-slot extrutions that I had left over from a photobooth I build and tore down. The dimensions are 26"w x 24"d x 23"h.
• The sides are 1/4" MDP with hand holes cut out of the two sides on top.
• The top and frond are 1/4" acrylic sheets.
• The front is held on by 1/2" magnets (a finger hole at the top)
• The bottom has 2 - 1030 extrusions 24" long that hold the controller components. The controller can be slid out to access all the components just by removing the 4 screws that mount to the extrusions.
• I routed the X Y Z and power cables though the back of the cabinet to the back of the controller underneath. I those cables in back and the power and USB in the front because the back cables I felt I wouldn’t mess with very much, but the power and usb would be used all the time.
• I had some 8020 panel mounts so I used them to mount the MDF and acrylic.
• The base 1/2 melonine is mounted to the frame and the X-Carve is mounted to the melonine. I did this so I could carry it around.

Still Need Todo:
• replace front controller plate with aluminum one (currently I quickly cut a 1/4" MDF one)
• waiting for Inventables to start shipping their power supply board (https://www.inventables.com/technologies/power-supply-interface-pcb). I f’d mine up and I need it for hooking up the Solid State Relay.
• hook up a vacuum through the back of the cabinet. I am working on making a mini cyclone vacuum using two Vacmaster vacuums. They are $20 at Menards and I will use one as a vacuum and gut the second one for the wasbasket.

Pictures:







































If you see anythign that looks like something someone else did, you are probably right. Nothing is new here… just reworked what other people did. I give you all full credit for all the good stuff of this build and I take all the blame for the crappy stuff.

Update 11-30-15:
I added a solid state relay to control the DeWalt 611 turning on and off. Below is a diagram of my wiring if you want to use it for reference. This was after I fried my stepper board.

I used an a free online circuit drawing app from Digikey, it worked sweet… http://www.digikey.com/schemeit/

I also included some updated pictures with the relay and the PCB on the power supply. I ended up cutting the PCB in half since I didn’t need the power inlet port.






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Beautiful work! And I thought I was anal. (that was a complement) You win!

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That makes my duct tape and cardboard enclosure look pretty sad… :smile:

Thanks guys.

One other thing I want to to do is build a stand that I can set the cabinet on top of to use. I am thinking 4x4’s as the legs and notch out each corner at the top for the legs of the base to fit into.

Would you be willing to share the part files for the drag link brackets? I would really like to have my drag links take up less space since I’m putting my machine in an enclosure.

EDIT: Just saw the information in your post about where to find the files

On your 611 air diffuser, have you thought of integrating a dust shield with it? That would make it complete. Or at least leave screw holes in the diffuser for attaching one… That’s something you should look at sending to manufacturing.

Looks fantastic Menerso, those power supply mounts are exactly what I need to get mine off the desk and mounted along side it, thank you.

Shawn

I am thinking I want to do something very simple. Not a whole “dust brush” type. Just a hose mounted right behind the bit. It may not get everything, but it would get most of the dust and it would allow you to see everything too.
Not sure if it would be better to mount to the DeWalt or to the DeWalt holder. I will definitely post it on Thingiverse when I do, so just follow me on there… or here too.

Glad I could help with the power mounts. I looked all over and didn’t find something that would work for this in a simple manner.
I originally was mounting the power supply from the bottom through the acrylic, but then I would have to flip it up to remove. I didn’t like that.

I wonder if you could channel the air from your diffuser to blow onto the work toward the bit on three sides and mount your vacuum hose on the open side. Then you have all four sides trying to direct the dust. That might be enough to catch most of the dust without the dust skirt.

can you draw out what you mean? I could build a model up like you said.

Haven’t had time to draw it yet, but I’ll see if I can give a more clear description.

If you can configure the air deflector from the router to blow down on the piece from three sides, say from 11 o’clock to 7 o’clock then have a different air channel for the dust collection that sucks from 7 o’clock to 11 o’clock you might be able to do without the skirt. The air from the router would make an air curtain that would blow the dust from the right side toward the left where the dust collection is.

In short, you’d have the air from the router blowing from one side (maybe tilted a little toward the router bit) while the dust collection sucks from the other side.

Hope that’s more clear. I’m in the process of cutting my own waste board with t-slots and fences for the X and Y axes, then I’ll see if I can figure out a way to design what I’m describing.

You’re right, Angus. A 3d printer would be ideal so you don’t have to carve the plastic in multiple layers to get the air channels. I’ll have to look and see what it would take to put a printer head on the XCarve.

I think the air deflector should be made to blow on you and keep you cool. :smile:
I don’t use an deflector on my dust collector using 611. Never been a problem and no dust what so ever.

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An X-Print from Inventables? Yeah baby…how cool would that be!

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I added a base for my cabinet. Simple Oak stand. 3D printed some feet for it so I can make it level.





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