The cassette tables I’ve seen have a 1/4" glass top.
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I like the flat bar, kinda looks like the tape itself.
Jer
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Kinda needs a pencil through one of the holes…
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You need to paint this sticker on!
And you should do the acrylic around the whole table top as well t
for the full effect… 
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Nice!
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@PhilJohnson, This is amazing! So creative. @DavidWestley stole my thunder with his pencil comment. 
How about making the legs #2 yellow Ticonderoga pencils? 
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I think the metal would look great and support the table very well.
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I think you’d have to do bent lamination to make the legs out of wood and have them strong enough, but I like the metal better anyway, though maybe instead of black you might go with an oxide (tape) color - it’s been a while since I looked at magnetic tape, don’t remember it as being black, but maybe some were. I’d make the legs the right width to be the tape for the scale of the cassette.
I do think the project looks very cool. The idea came to me of making a transparent case around the whole thing which would just happen to make the table top flat, but thought would be lots of work, crazy expensive, and it probably looks better without it.
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What about filling in the negative spaces with clear resin until its level with the top wood. Then you won’t need any top that might break and it will preserve the shape of the project.
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That’s what I was thinking too.
Based on the current design that looks like it would be a LOT of resin, and most of the way around the resin would form the edge of the table, so you’d have to use a form and really have to make it perfect and polish the edges. Crazy amount of work.
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Plus if you ended up with the slightest bubble or defect in the resin you get to start from scratch. Yikes.
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Looking good !
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Wow, how do you plan to cut the walnut inlay to fit the v shaped groove? Are you actually going to model it as a 3D shape?
Since I already said Wow, I guess now it’s Wow Wow!
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I wouldn’t use acrylic, it’s very soft and easy to scratch and blemish… glass is inexpensive and reliable. Acrylic will mean problems within a week of this is used at all.
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Acrylic isn’t cheaper than glass, really. My local glass guy will cut 21" x 43" x 3/16" tempered (pinball glass) for $40 which is the cost for material AND cutting to size… for rigidity you’ll probably want .25" acrylic… that’ll run you more than that if bought in a small quantities (2x4 probably… $80?
)
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Is a mapp torch included with every order of a coffee table? 
Plastic polish like Novus #2 (followed by Novus #1) works well for small stuff.
Acrylic, especially thin acrylic, is prone to cracking… one might lean towards poly-carbonate such as lexan for that reason… but it has its own problems(softer, price, clarity, polish-ability).
There was a time when I thought acrylic and polycarbonate were gods gift to men… then when I started working with them for a variety of purposes their shortcomings became very obvious. There is a reason people still use Glass.
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That’s expensive for a glass top. Are you planning the same complexity as the acrylic (non rectangular)? That might have something to do with it.
In any event, I am curious how it will turn out, and what your ultimate thoughts are regarding working with acrylic. My recommendation is to leave the protective cover on it until delivery.