I always check the tool paths anyway to make sure it’s going to fly correctly.
Ok, can someone make a video from start to finish…in detail starting with importing into easel, opening the inlay app and setting it all up? I’ve read all of the comments in this thread and still very confused. P.S.- Please use very elementary words 
Then please link me to it. I tried on my own and just got majorly confused (Not hard to do).
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I can’t create a video right now, but the gist is as follows:
- Select shape to cut out
- Go to Apps and select inlay - follow with appropriate settings
- Two shapes will be created, the inlay pocket and inlay shape
- Move these and delete the original
- Set one of them to 0 depth, and cut the other to appropriate depth
- Set other to zero, and cut object you have left over
- Profit!
Does that make sense? You basically have to do two different cuts no matter what. Its difficult if not impossible to accomplish this with one cut.
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The way I’ve been doing the inlays in Easel is to run the app, then save a copy of the file, so I have 2.
Then call one the “Male” inlay (this will be the outline);
and call the other the “Female” (this is the fill).
I also find it helpful to add the type of material each piece will be, so if I’m doing walnut inlay in cherry, I would then have 2 Easel files:
• Project Male Walnut
• Project Female Cherry
That way I know exactly which one I’m carving out of which material.
Set the depth of the Female pocket a bit thinner than the depth of your inlay material. If your inlay material is .125", set the depth of the pocket to .115" or so. This will make the inlay sit proud of the face of the material, which you can sand flush.
You can set the machine up with both pieces on the wasteboard at once, then run the carve for each, setting the 0,0 point at the corner of whichever piece you’re carving.
I wouldn’t really recommend trying to do 2 species of wood or other material in the same carve, as you can’t specify different feeds and speeds for them in Easel. You’d likely end up with one or the other part having some tearout or chatter, perhaps even breaking a bit if there’s a big difference (ebony and pine, for instance).
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This is how I approach my inlays as well. Good tip @Mike
It is much easier to have different settings saved for the different types of materials with 2 Easel files.
Any word on mm availability in the inlay generator app? I just bought some .08 mm bits for inlay, feeling like a fool now!
When I use this app I don’t see how to change the bit size from 1/8. Is this possible. When I make a star there is about an 1/8 gap between the insert and the pocket. The pocket being bigger. What am I doing wrong.
Set the outline to cut inside the path or fill for the host female part and select outside the path for the insert male part. Don’t cut both just on the line or you’ll have a gap as large as your bit.
Used the letter D in inlay app. Used the make a copy. Set up two files but the male part came out different size than the female and would not fit some areas were close but others were 1/8 off. The cut was good. Also why can you not change the bit size in the app. Comes up 1/8 with tolerance 0.1 and will not allow you to put in another size.
You should 100% be able to change the bit and tolerance sizes. I use this app very frequently (multiple times a week) and have never had that problem. Maybe a computer reboot would correct the problem?
Also you do not need to change cut paths at all when using the inlay app. Setting cut path type is already done for you when creating the inlay. You can change depth, but do not change the cut type.
How do you change the bit and tolerance size in the app. I have changed the size in easel but nothing changes in the app. I finally got the inlay to work if I don’t copy and make a new file for the inlay. But I would like to be able to make the insert out of a different wood. Only thing I can figure is that when I make a copy, I am changing the size of the insert somehow. Any suggestions
I want to make a sign like your NEWTON…beautiful>
Here’s a bunch of my recent work using the Inlay App. As soon as the Inlay App interface pops up there should be a sliding bar for both tolerance and bit size. I regularly use two different types of wood. I usually cut the pocket, then move the images around in Easel and cut the inlay. I change wood types and all. Only in one project as I don’t have internet in my shop!
All looks great. My sliders do not work on any of the apps
Did you try rebooting your computer, or at least internet browser? Also, which browser are you using?
I did reboot. I use explorer. Will that make a difference?
I would suggest using Chrome. I think (not sure though) that’s Inventables recommended browser.
Greetings. I am as green as they come when talking CNC. I currently make both end grain and edge grain cutting boards and butcher blocks. My goal has been to ultimately get a CNC in order to do inlays. After reading post after post here it seems even more daunting than I initially thought. I am a pretty good learner, so I believe in time and practice I could succeed. My question is this: Is the X-carve the right tool for me? I need to be able to do extremely tight, intricate inlays. The best way for me to pose this is by sharing a link and asking more seasoned people like yourselves if this is plausible. I welcome any and all opinions please. So please check out this you tube video and let me know if the X-carve is the right tool for me. Thank you all in advance. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_7OqnuO0s04
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I do similar, though not as complex, inlays as what you’re demonstrating. When I rough with an 1/8" bit and do a fine pass with a 1/32" bit (or smaller, sometimes), I get nice results that should be similar to what you’re wanting. My guess is that the X-Carve would work well for you.
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Wow that is such an intense video. You should be able to do it though! I’ve done some pseudo complicated stuff with mine, but nothing like that! Yet…
As much time and effort as you put into the X-Carve tuning it, it will return in dividends in accuracy. The correct software will help a lot too. The X-Carve just cuts, so it will maintain the accuracy you put into assembling it.