Easel does have that capability. On the Machine tab, it asks for bit size. Input the size of your roughing bit (the larger bit), then check the box below it for Use Detail Bit and a box will appear asking for the size of the detail bit.
That Detail Bit box must be something that only you have access to, but I can’t wait until it’s public. It would sure be nice to have that option.
You can request access to it on the “Two Stage” thread if you are willing to be a beta tester.
1 Like
Hi @RyanBell
This post just popped into my mind and I thought I’d weigh in again. A two stage cut might be a solution to this issue, but I bet you might be able to achieve better results that in the picture with just using a different bit. Try the single flute 1/8" spiral up-cut bit instead of the 2 flute straight bit. This might give you cleaner edges… I might also just slow down the feed rate just a hair for the 1 flute… maybe.
If you are looking for speed, then you may want to try the two stage cuts with a 1/4" bit for rough and a 1/8" bit for cleanup, but try the above bit first.
@sketch42 Thanks for the tip, I posted in the two stage cut thread to hopefully be approved. I gave it a go this morning with the single spiral up cut bit and the edges were a lot smoother except for the end grain which is typical. Would still like to make a second detail cut on the inside though to make the wood buttery smooth.
One problem that I ran into is on the edges of the inlay where the lid would be going, it its not cutting straight like I wanted it too. I imaging its because it it try to fill the path so there is actually no data for those areas? Any ideas as to how I could fix this would be great!
Hmmm, can you share the project that you used to cut the box, so I can take a look and see if there is something I’d change?
Edit: BTW… you are definitely making progress.
@sketch42 Thanks! Hoping to get these bugs sorted out this morning todo another cut!
http://easel.inventables.com/projects/wHOxb-Tu_u666i0Ss9w3wQ
For your final pass are you using conventional milling or climb milling. You might want to try climb milling. I know that when machining aluminum in my CNC mill that climb milling on the final pass gives a better finish. I leave .01" on my roughing passes and then take it off with a climb mill finish pass.
Dave
@DavidSohlstrom Thanks for the tip Dave. Have not heard of climb milling before. Is this something easel is capable of or something you would do in other software?
I don’t use easel so I do not know if climb milling is an option when building tool paths. One has to be careful with climb milling on machines that have back lash in there drive systems. Because you are doing just that climbing into the material if you take a depth of cut that is to big and the machine has an issue with back lash you can have the end mill grab the material and pull the end mill into the material and cause problems.
If you have ever run a radial arm wood saw and had the blade catch on the wood and drag the saw at you with bad results it is the same thing.
Dave
Easel does not allow the choice of climb or conventional cutting. I know that Vcarve and Fusion360 allow the choice.
Here is a good article explaining the difference.
@sketch42 Hey I am sure you are a busy man but was wondering if you had any time to take a look at my file. Messed around with some things with no luck in solving the issue I am having. Thanks!
Hi @RyanBell,
Sorry about that, I’ve been traveling. I’m back now so, I’ll take a look tonight and see if I can help.
@sketch42 All good sketch. I really appreciate the help. I have run into the same issue with a similar project using the same technique in illustrator.
Ok, @RyanBell
I think I see your problem. Try this Easel file below and see if it fixes the issue:
Basically I went in and made the inner pocket operations (the inner vectors) overlapping instead of butting up against each other. You can see this by moving and playing with with the vectors in the above file compared to the one that you originally shared. Just move the deeper inner pocket and undo, then check the other file and you will see what I mean.
Tip: always carefully check the tool path this material hidden before carving and it will usually show where there is a problem.
Edit: as a side benefit to this revised setup, the vector for the lid is already there, you just need to copy the Easel project and delete all of the others and then set the new depth.
Thanks @sketch42 that seemed to have fixed the problem. This morning I broke my 1/8 single flute uncut bit due to lack of properly securing the material to the waste board. Went out and got some 2" M5 screws to directly fasten the wood to the board. I ended up purchasing a 1/4 inch duel flute spiral bit and am very pleased with the cut quality, very smooth results. The only issue I am encountering is the machine seems to be shuttering a lot on the initial plunge cuts of each pass where the bit has to take off the most material. Usually it ends up being on the man edges which is not sharp at all (very wavy).
Here are the cutting specs. Wood is maple, speed is 18in/min and depth per pass is 0.050in 1/4 inch bit
Glad it helped. Post some pics when you get it cut.
The feedrate and DOC you are using is very conservative. I would not expect chatter at those rates (maybe burning though). You may want to power everything off and grab the tip of the bit and see if there is any play in any direction, Sounds like something must be lose.
@sketch42 @AllenMassey here is a video of the chatter i am experiencing. Will go tighten up everything and give it another try