(Old) Lead Screw Upgrade Kit (OLD THREAD)

Depends on how you want to mount it. For the Y axis could be as simple as 8 screws, 8 nuts, and four new holes in each of the gantry plates. (would require two 1000mm kits).

@EliasPolitis

Thanks for your post. I thought that 8mm wasnā€™t enough, but had no data to back it up.

At least with this data one can determine if the capabilities of the 8mm screw are acceptable for their project.

i guess its one way to go. But i like the design i have so far. Im going this saturday to a shop to have them made for me better than my current machine can make.

How ever, how would u handle the weakest link? the single belt x?

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Replace the whole X axis with a C-beamā€¦ and then realize you thought you bought an Inventables machine and ended up with an Openbuilds one.

Joking aside, if someone reaches the point where their X-Carve barely looks like what originally came in a box, the sooner they realize they are ready for their next CNC machine the better. Otherwise they will keep spending money to reinforce their first machine till they hit the next weak spot. And then the next.

One last remarkā€¦

I want to clarify that I do not consider X-Carve to Openbuilds as an upgrade path. X-Carve, SO3 & Openbuilds are at the same league. The reason I originally preferred the X-Carve over the others was not the Makerslide [donā€™t take me wrong Bart, I still believe Makerslide revolutionized home fabrication] , it was first its community, then its support. For the same reasons I would still recommend the X-Carve as a smooth entrance to the CNC world to a new user today.

If this new user asked me what an upgrade path would be, my personal opinion would be:

  • get a gen 2 X-Carve
  • if you want more rigid get a new Z-axis
  • when you reach a point that your old machine is a serious limitation (e.g. you need to produce high quantities fast), get a new machine with linear bearings and ballscrews (if small/medium size) or rack/pinion (if large size)
  • put a laser head on the X-Carve and keep it for branding your products
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I do think the machine is good enough as is however upgrades take it to the next level.
A better z and screw drives will eliminate the 2 largest remaining issues.
Iā€™m doing the screws first then Iā€™m gonna do my z.

I want to mill aluminum and not have chatter nā€™ shatter.
I want to mill aluminum and not baby/rub my bits to death.
I want to mill aluminum and not have my router go awol.
I have had bits (10 minutes in) Waltz 3 inches off path and then go die in a ditch of their own making because the belts stretched the bit took a bite and the motor torqued out and gave up.
I am not looking for 800ipm with a 1/8 bit. I want my hobby to cost less long term.
(If u didnā€™t notice I love aluminum) :kissing_heart:
(And actually I do want 800ipm but we canā€™t all be Titans.)

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Exactly.

Thereā€™s no much point in having screws and stay with the plastic V wheels. Linear rails are next.

Then you sum it all up and see youā€™ve spent 2k or more on the same machine and in the end the only bit left from its original setup are the motors. On top of that, all these upgrades were depended on and locked to the previous status of the geometry and limitations of the previous machine every time you upgraded.

Now think of the alternative. Spend your cash on a new machine and have the freedom to chose whatever design you like and pick whatever components you like.

To give you a perspective of what you can do in that range of $, I just finished an all alu build with 16mm ballscrews and 15mm Hiwin rails. It cost 1.6k .

ā€¦ which sounds extremely acceptable!

I am thinking about building a custom machine, but the idea of starting a design from scratch makes me put it off every time.

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You might want to checkout this site and his YouTube videos
http://www.davegatton.com/purchase-gatton-cnc-kit.html

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I am on the path to the next step and when finished the xcarve will strictly be a cnc router and not a pseudo cnc mill. Working on funds now. worktable will be made from ATP 5 as well as the rest of the rails and gantry with linear slides and ball screw and maybe a 3hp spindle all parts have been located but still undecided on controller but it will Waite till all is done as a few years may pass and there could be a better 4 axis controller by then.

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Itā€™s ALIVE!

Video being uploaded to my YouTube channel tomorrow morn.
So far zero issues once I followed the GRBL Sageā€™s advice.
Set $2=X and $3=X
Set $100=X and $101=X
Set $110=X and $111=X
Swap was very straight forward and intuitive.
Only special tool needed was an extra long clamp. Could be done without it too.

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That looks slick. well done, sir

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Thanks.

I feel like the Price point conversation kinda got lost in the mix. PM inbound.

Holy cow itā€™s a beast.
Itā€™s super rigid and wonā€™t move no matter how hard I push or pull. No more mechanical disadvantages.
It does move at a slower speed but itā€™s oh so strong now.
Keep your fingers clear. (Or stock spares)

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I would agree but some may say I am biasedšŸ¤—

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For a price reference. myhobby-cnc sells a ā€œtin packageā€ for the ShapeOko 2 Screw Drive, you buy the nuts and spindles seperately so can choose the length yourself. This kit is 55 EUR plus the cost of the spindles and muts.bleche is tin plates in german

Looks great.

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Yes to the x but I wanted access to the backlash adjustment.
As for y I wanted the screws out of the way of the dirt and tight against the gantry plates.
Other wise it would be high up midair over the v wheels.