Nj. Lolz
I observe a similar situation. I have belts mounted on the Yās. I suspect the belts might be off a tooth of synchronization side-to-side(Y1-Y2).
Perhaps Iām a bit confused. An Inventables help person indicated they discourage manual movement of the rails & steppers(with belts attached), as they could generate a current. That caused me to think it wouldnāt be possible for them to independently free wheel. This got me to conclude ābelts with a tooth out of stepā. Thanks.
While the topic is still alive, Iāve encountered a strange thing this week: In the middle of a long work I got a termal shutdown a couple of time.
I have then noticed that now I have a little loss of precision, in order of 1mm or so. I need to recalibrate the motor when I get a termal shut?
Does it act as like a hard stop to the X-Carriage?
Yes it acts as a hard stop. The plastic piece keeps from having metal crash into metal and helps protect from crushing the limit switches. A hard rubber will give a little more cushion, but for now the plastic is working well
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Very nice!!!
Where are the hard rubber ones found?
I have not run across any yet, but I also have not looked. These plastic pieces, I just had laying around my shop from a flat panel tv mount. You might try an Amazon search for rubber bumpers. Or drill out the center of a rubber wine cork.
Just be certain that the bumpers will allow your Gantry to square up. Rubber can be torqued down enough so that it deforms and mushrooms out, the plastic pieces that I used do not deform. Just food for thought.
I also want to add that since I have installed this āStopā system, I have not actually had to use it on the X or Y axis except for forced collisions just to see what happens. The biggest benefit that I get from them is being easily able to check that the Gantry is touching on both sides, meaning it is square, and I donāt have to worry about crushing my limit switches, these Hard Stops are designed to stop the moving parts before pressure is applied to the body of the switch.
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Awesome input! Thanks so much.
Happy Holidays!!
Thatās awesome!!
Now you need some hydraulics.
Maybe an automatic material feed or tool changer.
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is your table still good under the waste board?
Waste board envyā¦
One day I might call Speedy Metals and ask for the āPhil Specialā.
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wow that would set me back more then the cost of the machine. Has anyone done a solid epoxy top? It would pour level can be planed down and just repaired when its to low.
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I was thinking about a thin epoxy pour over a substrate, but decided to go another route before I pulled the trigger
Iām in the process of building @PhilJohnsonās WasteBoard. Iāve laid out the major holes and have half of them already drilled.
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why did you put it on top of the x carve frame?
oh i was thinking cut the perfect size to fit the inside would guarantee the frame was square
My frame (20mm extrusions) are absolutely, dead nuts square. Like, within 1/64"ā¦ that said, with the y-carriages in place and moved to the front, the left side y-carriages hits the end plate about 10mm before the right.
Whatās your approach to checking perpendicularity between the X and Yās?
Left side x-carriage is not square to the x axis. Iām test-shimming the back two makerslide bolts to see how far out it is.
With the square against the carriage, it runs out to About 2.5mm at the end of an 8" squareā¦soā¦
2.5/203.2(mm gap across the 8" distance)= x/48.7(width of makerslide end)
Cross multiply
203.2x=2.5*48.7
203.2x=121.75
121.75/203.2=X
X=.5991mm shim to get it squareā¦
And THAT, kids, is why they taught us algebraā¦ canāt remember how to find angle theta without googling itā¦
I know I could break it apart and probably buzz a little off the front side, but this is a work In progress. Iām making a list of bandaids, so that I can correct them all at once