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Well this was quick,
$0=10 (step pulse, usec)
$1=255 (step idle delay, msec)
$2=0 (step port invert mask:00000000)
$3=7 (dir port invert mask:00000111)
$4=0 (step enable invert, bool)
$5=0 (limit pins invert, bool)
$6=0 (probe pin invert, bool)
$10=3 (status report mask:00000011)
$11=0.020 (junction deviation, mm)
$12=0.002 (arc tolerance, mm)
$13=0 (report inches, bool)
$20=0 (soft limits, bool)
$21=0 (hard limits, bool)
$22=0 (homing cycle, bool)
$23=3 (homing dir invert mask:00000011)
$24=25.000 (homing feed, mm/min)
$25=750.000 (homing seek, mm/min)
$26=250 (homing debounce, msec)
$27=1.000 (homing pull-off, mm)
$30=12000. (rpm max)
$31=0. (rpm min)
$100=40.000 (x, step/mm)
$101=40.000 (y, step/mm)
$102=95.032 (z, step/mm)
$110=8000.000 (x max rate, mm/min)
$111=8000.000 (y max rate, mm/min)
$112=500.000 (z max rate, mm/min)
$120=500.000 (x accel, mm/sec^2)
$121=500.000 (y accel, mm/sec^2)
$122=50.000 (z accel, mm/sec^2)
$130=790.000 (x max travel, mm)
$131=790.000 (y max travel, mm)
$132=100.000 (z max travel, mm)
Mine works for me but your reslts may vary of course.
Also i am not sure what you are looking at but I havenât got any homing/limit switches on my machine. Crushed my Z switch some time ago and took them off thinking I would futz with that sometime later. That day hasnât come yet. shutting down fro now the household renovations are calling.
Understandable. Side question tho⌠how do u compensate for makerslides that are not cut square? If i were to go ur way of taller y plates it will become unbearable. Im having huge issues once i started cutting more precise items.
I have the exact same Z-axis but havenât installed it due to not having the aluminum adapter piece you made. Very nice! I also bought the Openbuilds extrusion with the rails and was going to install that all at the same time, but after seeing your extensions I started wondering if I could just tailor that to fit the Openbuilds hole pattern. And then yes⌠I saw that inventables finally announced their rail so I donât know if Iâll keep the one I have or buy that one and wait for it to arrive. Either way I canât start working on it until later this month.
What did you end up with for the hole pattern measurements to tap in to the linear rail? I believe Iâve got 3" (76.25mm) center-to-center on the left to right, and .5" (12.72mm) vertical spacing on each row. The center holes appear to be 1" center to center. I wasnât expecting these to be in inches so was pleasantly surprised to see them appear to line up.
Hey @PhilJohnson just following up on this⌠now that youâve had it going a couple days, are you still happy with the purchase of the new Z axis? Any other lessons learned?
Phil,
Just a guess on my part, but since you did do some rewring, disconnecting and reconnecting, might it have been a loose/intermittent connection in the stepper wiring? That is a known cause of fried driver chips with sudden power loss.
Glad itâs up and running. I enjoy seeing your art.
John
Sorry was in the wilds of Minnesota (ok, Brainerd) for the last several days. This is where my reply (donât use⌠I use Gecko/Mach3) should have gone. Sorry. For a minute - I could almost hear @JkWestphal 's machine running from where I was.
How is it wired?
If its not wired correctly it could be an issue with the chassis ground voltage vs the ground on the gShield which would draw too much current through it.
If you have your switch grounded to the chassis then you need to make sure its not electrically grounded to it.The switch should be buffered with a resistor to prevent too much current when the input pin to the GShield is sent to a logic low by the switch.
This is a caution for GeckoDrives 251x drivers. May not apply to the gShield, but???
âCAUTION! Never put a switch on the DC side of the power supply! This will damage, if not destroy, your drive!â http://www.geckodrive.com/g251x-rev-9
did you have it break the + or - side?
Should be the + side
If not then you can have issues with power traveling from the ground going to the supply through the board that would fry it.
perhaps I can do a drawing of how to wire it so it will not cause any future burnouts of boards.
When I get home I will get a schematic of how to wire up the E-stop.
Just need to get my nice tools out to do a good diagram and show how to properly wire it up.
For what itâs worth, I have my original 500mm Xcarve with a GShield and NEMA 17 motors wired up this way (a switch between the 24V DC supply and the stepper motor input).
I have not noticed any negative effects with this.
Using the switch was a bad habit unfortunately. I used the switch for either a zeroing or moving the machine out of the way after a carve, but still I never had any ill effects.
I remember reading somewhere (GeckoDrives? - not sure) that when steppers are suddenly decelerated and the drivers are not connected to a power supply, the back EMF from the stepper motors can flow into the other connected drivers, and the EMF high voltage spikes can damage the drives. The back EMF is usually absorbed by a power supplyâs filter capacitors. Since you know your wiring was correct, and no wires came loose to a stepper motor (which can also damage a driver), only your eStop switch seems left to suspect.
Maybe someone with more experience (and memory cells) than me will jump in with some good references.
On the first batch, the AC voltage goes through the e-stop before it gets to the power supply. Now the power supply (+) goes through the e-stop before it gets to the controller. The power supply has so much capacitance that cutting the AC does not stop the machine very fast. The new way is almost immediately.
Note: I have found the fastest and best way to stop the machine in a minor crisis, like it is about to hit a clamp) is to hit the pause button. That is really fast and you can resume without position loss. if you like. Grbl feed hold is really fast!
