One trick I’ve found, is buy (or find remnant) tongue and groove solid flooring scraps from a flooring place, use a jointer, or table saw to make sure the edges are flat, and glue up to get thicker stock. I’ve been able to make 12-16" tall boards in various lengths for plaques.
I was able to pick up literally a truck bed full of cherry scraps between 14" and 20" long from a flooring contractor down the street, jointed the edges and glued them up to make plaques. The boards cost me nothing and the solid cherry was beautiful. In many cases you can’t even see where they are glued up…
Cedar is awesome as well. I like the solid flooring as it has the tongue and groove that makes alignment easy.
Have you ever done teak? I got my hands on a scrap and despite being really hard it mills like butter…
Got a pic of the exotics? I use that kind of wood for most of my woodworking projects.
Yes it would be good to know before you start cutting them. Some woods, especially some of the jungle woods can be quite nasty on your health.
And your tools. (looking at you Purple Heart and Bubinga)
Sweet sign. I think $15 bucks is leaving money on the table. Just the opinion of someone who hasn’t sold a sign yet .
I think 15 was referring to time, not cost
LOL - Sorry. I like the sign.
This is pine correct?
Only a one tool V-carve operation?
If only I was allowed to grill on my apartment balcony.
i like it better vanilla.
But judging from other finishing threads, it probably is a cultural thing.
I think it looks better without the stain. The effect of there ice/snow kind of gets lost when it is stained, and also the N in the AND becomes a little unreadable. Just my .02
Hey Phil or anyone else familiar with V carve desktop, can you look at this project and tell me why the 3d roughing pass is not cutting all the different heights of the model? I actually had it right at one point but decided to change the design and now I can’t get it figured out for the life of me. I am using the roughing pass only because when I tried to leave stock and use finishing pass the preview looked terrible. Thanks in advance.
StanNewGFclock2.crv (751.5 KB)
Looks fine with a .125 ballnose for a finishing pass.
Yes, I understand that but with all straight cuts I did not want to use a ball nose end mill and add a lot more cutting time and a flat end mill gave me the results in the attached pic. At some point I did get what I wanted with just the roughing pass ( I even carved one ) but with this new design I haven’t been able to duplicate what I did.
I did add a .125 BN finishing pass and the preview looks great…just almost twice the time that my first design took to carve.
Looks like I will be adding a finishing pass Thanks for your help!!
No, actually made a couple of these when i first got X-carve using another cam program.
That being said, I’m not above borrowing someones idea and running with it…
two of deeze…
two of deeze nuts per side
Damn I cone hone everyday and see this number and keep telling myself I should make one. Did you design the file?
Using a V bit for a chamfer on the mounting holes?
There’s a vectric tutorial (I think it’s the wedding rings/Romeo and Juliet) that shows how they do a chamfered mounting screw hole.
Probably easier to do a manual countersink though after the CNC drills the holes.
Kasey… come on now. those numbers look so sad.
Just playing… I don’t even have any numbers on my house.