Phil's Zonestar build

I was wondering what you were doing in easel when I watched your “M3” video. … um wait I didn’t watch that … I don’t stalk you.

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Yea I reread your post and realized what it was actually saying. It was too early.

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Your Initial S command sets the rate, which is held in memory until changed or powered off correct? That’s why you only have to put it once.

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I very much dislike individuals who share bad information such as this. I’m always glad to see people call them out on it. (Sad that most of these guys are blind to the truth when it shoved down their throats in a matter of FACT way as well)

I especially like to see when others back the person up who’s calling out the misinformation.

I had this experience once and the TROLL started to contradict everything I stated. He probably would have contradicted me if I said the Earth was Round or the Sun was the center of our solar system. After putting up with this for several months I finally just left that forum. Figured if no one wanted to back me up they could keep the guy who was feeding them misinformation. That’s basically when I showed up here. Now you guys have to put up with me. :smiling_imp::stuck_out_tongue_winking_eye::rofl: lol

Keep up the great work Phil.

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When I need my prints to be very strong I use MakerGeeks Raptor series PLA. It can be annealed in boiling water and the part is as strong as I have seen and is dishwasher safe.

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I just watched this video the other day. Very interesting.

I use 3dxtech’s CF-PETG for things I want really stiff :slight_smile: I tried annealing PLA prints before but most of the time, ABS is still stronger. I also use eSun’s ePC filament. I replaced a dishwasher roller part that costs $18 to get from Amazon. The printed part already lasts for several months (printed several so if it breaks, already have the part waiting)

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This is what my holder looks like!

pvc

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Be careful if the spool spins too freely, it can cause tangles in the filament. You want a bit of friction so the extruder pulls the filament off of the spool.

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I use 1Kg spools (2.2 lbs). I just printed a spool holder that slips into a slot on my printer for each manufacturer’s spool hub sizes. Takes less than five seconds to change spools.

No bearings or rollers, just friction against the plastic axle.

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Blue tape, glue stick? Bed temp? Raft?

@PhilJohnson I run several 3D printers, some pretty constantly. Elmer’s purple glue stick does wonders. What is the build plate material? Is it heated?

Blue Lo… nevermind.

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I’d definitely use glue stick. Make sure that tape is good and stuck to the plate too. That first layer should be pretty squished, especially when you’re getting used to the printer. It’s hard to calibrate well without any prints to base off. If you’re still not getting adhesion, try increasing your extrusion temp.

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FYI. I like the FrogTape more than Blue Tape.

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I ordered one too.

:grimacing:
Video?

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Same here. Which version are you using, regular or delicate?

I prefer the blue. The cheap stuff too, not 3M.

With my machine, I found that the FrogTape Released much better than the blue tape. It felt as if I was going to break the glass with the blue tape. The prints released better with this tape but had no issues with non-sticking. I also do not have a heated bed either. Most of the time I can get several prints without having to replace the tape. The blue tape easily ripped off or stuck to the print. This is just my personal experience with my cheap XYZ Davinci Jr. I have not tried it with any other machine. So your mileage may vary bc all machines/filaments are different.