Just wanted to create this topic for the Shapeoko 2 users for Discussion,Assembly,Tweaks.
So here is my first question is the old The Shapeoko Forum @ Shapeoko CNC Router, Rigid, Accurate, Reliable, and Affordable is that not an Inventables Forum? Is this new Inventables Community Forum a replacement for that? Or is the Shapeoko Forum the opensource Forum for the Shapeoko? and the Inventables Community Forum is for the people that purchased there Shapeoko from Inventables?
Yup, the Shapeoko forum is not affiliated with Inventables. It is managed by Shapeoko, and not by Inventables. This forum is brand new for Inventables. It is for any and all of our customers including Shapeoko owners as well as future X-Carve customers!
One useful link i’ll add to this discussion is that we made our own assembly video for the Shapeoko 2, so if you are having trouble with the instructions Shapeoko provides, check out this video:
Hi Scott. The “old” Shapeoko forum is run by Edward Ford, who started the project and has taken it in a new direction. As that original project has now forked into two distinct branches, we thought we’d create a new place to keep the discussion moving forward now that X-Carve is on the scene.
We manufactured and sold a whole lot of Shapeokos over the years, and are still committed to providing the best support we can to all our customers, so a new section with discussions around those kits purchased from Inventables is a great idea.
We also have reaffirmed out commitment to the open source movement, which is why X-Carve remains completely open. That’s also why we designed everything to be backwards-compatible, we think there’s a great ecosystem of innovation happening and we want to support all of that. Even, and especially, people who want to make their own add-ons or upgrades, or even competing kits. Please do that!
Sorry to be a little long in that answer. I hope that answers some of it?
So I just missed the x-carve release by a few weeks and purchased a Shapeoko 2 bummer! But the Shapeoko 2 is still cool and most of the problems I’m having they seemed to solved with x- carve that’s the bummer. but maby some one can help me with this question. So at 16:44 min mark in the Shapeoko 2 Works Kit Tutorial - Desktop CNC Carver Router by Inventables there showing the Z Axis sliding back and fourth on the maker slide in the direction of the X Axis, i’m at that point now in assembly how easy should the Z Axis slide back and fourth on the X Axis. I have all of the eccentric spacer nuts at the bottom and it seems to slide if I push it with one finger, but if I take the pressure off and give it a push it will not free glide. I noticed in the video the guy never takes his hand off of it, so with that in mind i’m not sure if it is right should it free glide? Also I noticed that it is only riding on 2 of the 4 v wheels on the top of the maker slide and 2 on the bottom each on the opposite corners. So i’m assuming I need to do some more alignment? any tips on how do this easily? here is what i got from the other forum But I can’t get it glide on any more then 2 v wheels. Help!
"Did you mark the eccentric spacers? — if not, figure out which is the narrow or wide point and mark them.
Have you turned them so as to afford the greatest possible spacing? — if not, please do so.
Did you push up towards the top of the carriage plate when affixing the static V-wheels? — if not, please loosen them, push down on the top of the carriage plate (assuming it’s attached to the Makerslide) and then re-tighten them.
If you do all of these things, the bottom V-wheels should be free of the Makerslide w/ some small bit of space — if that doesn’t occur, please dismantle one plate and measure the hole spacing and let us know what it is — also measure the V-rails on the Makerslide. If the above doesn’t resolve things then I’d guess that you have a combination of out-of-spec parts in the bad combination of slightly over-size Makerslide (which seems bizarre / almost impossible unless the die has worn really badly) and too large / close holes."
Hi Scott, from reviewing the video at that time, it appears that the eccentric nuts have not been tightened down yet. The carriage will run freely only if the eccentric nuts are too loose. In the video, Tait was doing that just to check that everything was in alignment and that the carriage could travel the entire length of the MakerSlide, but for normal operation you want the eccentric nuts to be tight enough that there’s no wiggle in the carriage. That will make it a little too stiff to roll freely on its own, you’ll feel a little resistance when you push it with your hand. If there’s a lot of resistance, you may have tightened it too much and will need to back off a bit.
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How accurate is the default step size (40.020 steps/mm)? I’ve measured the travel over large movements and find both X and Y to be short by about 0.1%. Using Universal G-code Sender I changed the step sizes accordingly, assuming that these values “stick” (stored in non-volatile memory?) and will apply when carving through other applications. Is that correct? When using inches, does the same calibration apply, or are there separate parameters for steps per inch?
Thanks!
The step/mm should be 40 steps/mm
Here is the formula.
(200 step/rev * 8 microsteps) / (20 teeth/rev * 2mm / tooth) = 40 steps/mm
I remember reading somewhere that the default value is 40.02 and that is what I see in the settings through UGS. However, the real question is how much variability should be expected. For example, if the belt is stretched too much that would reduce the steps/mm. But I’m seeing the opposite direction variance and am wondering what could cause it? I now have the X parameter set to 40.06 and Y to 40.07 and this produces a more accurate distance when moving near the full range of travel.
Never mind. I repeated the exercise and this time came up with very close to 40 steps/mm. Not sure what I did wrong the first time, but it is working well at 40. But I am still curious about the 40.02 that was the default setting (before I touched anything) and, I believe, in the instructions.
I think someone originally did the math in imperial units and that came from a rounding error in one of the conversions.
This video is excellent, I watched it several times while waiting for my kit, 1000mm board, Nema 23 and spindle upgrade. if you are building a 1000mm system, be sure to cut the lengths of extrusion that form the inner supports for the waste board support to result in exactly 1000mm total length (including the width of the extrusions that they butt up against) or the end plates (Yaxis) will not attach correctly. The length of your Y axis maker slides are exactly the length of your support frame.
Waste Board
I noticed on allot of the promos and videos the Waste Board looks like this:
The one that came with my shapeoko-2 is just blank split 2 part board. Is there a place I can get the template to print and over lay to drill holes in my waste board to do the hold down conversion?
I’m just about done with my assembly of my shapeoko-2 and I have some parts left over silly I know but i can’t figure out what there for.
I have a bag of 25285-08 M3 8mm Socket head cap screw(10 pack)
I have a bag of 25284-03 hex nuts(10 pack) to go with the head cap screws I guess
I have a bag of 25287-03 flat washers (10 pack) id 3.1mm od 7mm 45mm .55mm thickness to go with the head cap screws I guess
I have a bag of 25285-10 M3 12mm, 0.5mm pitch Socket head cap screw (10 pack)
What are they for? The only thing I can think is there for mounting the wiring blocks? ( I used zip ties)
@ScottFriend we published the technical drawing for the upgraded waste board so you can make it yourself instead of buying it.
https://www.inventables.com/technologies/waste-board-with-threaded-inserts
As for the left over hardware…http://youtu.be/VtyLUHdpJGE
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So you have no idea what those parts are for?
I was joking.
The hardware required for the mounting of the terminal blocks is:
M3 x 16mm Socket Head Cap Screw (SHCS) x 6 pcs.
M3 flat washer x 12 pcs.
M3 hex nut x 6 pcs.
I can’t explain the rest of the items. They bag them by weight so it is common to have a couple extra but I can’t explain why you would have that much extra.
Is there some where you can get a hold of the silk screen file for the waste board? I saw the waste board files for making a waste board by the way not sure what scale those drawings are at, but nothing on the grid.
I have a quick question regarding an issue I have with the belts on my S2 slipping. How tight should they be and how do you get them there?
I slowed my feed rate to 6 inches per minute and still got serious slipping when the bit was about halfway through some 1/2" hdpe.
The belts should be finger tight but you don’t need to really crank on them.
You might check to see if the pulleys are slipping on the motor shafts.