Sketchup Model of X-Carve 500 & 1000mm

I created a Sketchup file of the 500 & 1000mm X-Carve from the GrabCAD library. Since it was converted though a 3DS file type, and sketchup models geometry completely different than solidworks, there was some loss in translation… so I deleted the screws and fasteners as they were a jumbled mess. The parts and sub assemblies are layered by category/function.

500mm X-Carve Sketchup file

1000mm X-Carve Sketchup file

edit: created the corresponding 500mm sketchup file and linked it above


Thanks for this, Kevin. I started designing a torsion box for my X-Carve in Sketchup the other day. This fits perfectly on top of what I have so far and will help out a lot.

@RandyInLA whats a torsion box for the x carve?

That is awesome! I keep a sketchup model of my current shop layout and was just missing that. Thanks!!!

1 Like

Is there a recommended distance between the grid for a torsion box? Just general question as to strength over weight and functional benefit.


lol i am still confused what a torsion box is used for could you take me to school really quick?

I described torsion boxes in one of my videos, here’s a link to the time. I think I only spent 30 seconds or so talking about it, but the basic idea is that it all comes down to glue area:

Simply put, if built properly, a torsion box provides a dead flat surface and can’t twist. You can use one for anything where you need such performance.

ahh i see no it makes sense so really you can build a strong top all day long but this still all hinges on the legs correct over time? if the rest of your table or even the material which your table legs sit upon need to be perfectly flat?

wouldnt a possibly better and certainly more expensive option is to make a auto leveling bed like in a 3d printer?

Wouldn’t you say that’s the whole purpose? :wink:

If that’s the way one chooses to build it, they deserve what they get. For instance, a few years ago I built a torsion box assembly table that was about 40" wide and 90" long. Its purpose was to provide a dead flat surface for furniture I was building. It was and it worked.

I want to share my experience with layered MDF as a table top. I am not referring to a torsion box. What I did was laminate three layers of 3/4" material together. The bottom two layers are MDF, where as the very top layer is a coated particle board. The overall thickness of the table top is approximately 2 1/4" thick (58mm). These three layers have been glued and screwed together. Overall size of the table is 41"x71". I have plans to skirt the table with 2x stock but I just have not gotten around to do it yet. I am using two sets of legs to support the table. These are the heavy duty type sold by grizzly. The span between them is 43".

After about 6 months of service I noticed a significant sag in the middle of the table between the two sets of supports. In the 43" span between the supports the sag accumulates to a whopping 6mm. This means the center of my table sags a total of 6mm in the center of a 48" straightedge (Level).

Now I realize that there are ways that I can reinforce the table to bring it back to flat and try to keep it that way but I am not going to mess with it. I will be rebuilding this top and replacing it with a torsion box assembly.

considering my shop is humidity controlled, I would only assume a shop thats humidity fluctuated, A top like my current one would be in worst shape than it is now.

I don’t recommend just laying multiple layers of MDF for tabletops unless they are fully supported underneath by a substructure. When using MDF as a table surface, it has to be fully supported underneath by a grid of some sort. What’s the magic spacing distance for the substructure? Can’t tell you that for sure, but knowing what I know, I would rather overbuild it than under build it.

I developed the model by Kevin to the latest version of X-carve, with x controller etc.