here’s my first one… it will need to be separated into workpieces, and doesnt have string or bridge holes
(EDIT) the second workpiece has my new floyd properly aligned
here’s my first one… it will need to be separated into workpieces, and doesnt have string or bridge holes
(EDIT) the second workpiece has my new floyd properly aligned
How would you get the edges to correct dimension/angle?
Leaving the least amount of manual clean up?
Around the body cutout? Personally, I cut about 3/4" (19mm) deep, then bandsaw it out of the piece and finish it on the router table. What you COULD do, if you trust your zero, is make index holes in the stock, then create a second workpiece with the body flipped horizontally, and cut it out from the back.
The radius and such around the edges I either buzz off on the router table, or just ease with sandpaper
Belt sander… but again. extra work. Extra design time can mean much less work.
Very true. But I try to keep my machine churning stuff out as much as I can, when I can. So I’d rather pull it off and finish the body with traditional power tools in 10 minutes, rather than tie the machine up for an hour.
(Caveat… I am not picking up as fast as I’d like with F360… my opinions may change once I get to that point)
Tutorial videos can help a ton. And also i found if I speak aloud as I press shortcuts it helps me remember.
L for line
D for dimension
C for circle
Etc.
And try parametric design. Right click root and click save design history.
And when u can program in rough passes and Clean up you may be able to churn out more consistent bodies.
i can already get consistent bodies, way faster, conventionally. but i’m easing in… i know i can always improve
that said:
the shapes for the front are locked (pinned) so you will have to select all>move in order to keep them oriented properly.
this is meant for a 1.75" body blank!! the line that runs thru the post holes needs to be 25.125" from nut for 25.5" scale
24.375" from nut for a 24.75" scale
wherever the BOTTOM of the front routes falls in Z coordinates is where the BOTTOM of the rear cavity should go AS WELL.
note: center and perpendicular lines do NOT need to carry over to your guitar body. i only put them there as a reference point so that you wouldnt get too confused
http://easel.inventables.com/projects/EBdK5_AhMEXyW7ueMv9aeg
here is an explorer I have been working on. 1958.
haven’t made the pocket depths yet. but may be useful!
I have a LOT of stuff that I have converted to SVG, but a freaking PILE of stuff still in PDF
I’ve been up until 2 or 3 am every night, literally, since I got my X-CARVE. Loading PDF files into inkscape, converting, weeding, fixing… eventually the goal is to get them into fusion 360 and have them all a click away… but 40+ hours a week at work, plus a 6-month old at home is taxing
Christopher… you wouldn’t happen to have a neck profile for this you would be willing to share!!! Pretty please!! I’m stuck on trying to get my strat and Tele necks correct. I know you did alot of work to get this far and I appreciate the body cut alot…
Which neck? Sorry. At work…
To fit your buckertele.
this will need to be broken apart into the different cuts
Nice work Christopher!
Hi guys,
I hate to be the one who asks but has anybody got an easel file for templates for a Strat including neck?
I’m currently working on plans I found online by converting the PDFs to SVGs in Illustrator but I’m having scaling issues.
Many thanks,
Dean
@DeanWood Here is the neck
And the body
Bill, I just want to thank you for sharing. The Inventables community is just amazing. I hope to contribute a lot in future too, once I have my worksflow nailed down.