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I have a xCarve 1000x1000 machine. See the images - but my description of the issue is that it cuts fine for most of it, then I go to do the inside lip, it’s off a bit (you can see in images) and then the outside profile cut it seems like it starts ok, but slips and loses home and all hell breaks loose The first picture shows the craziness of the path - the second picture is when I sent it to X=0 / Y=0 - note how far off the sensor the true zero on Y - didn’t look at X, but it may have been off too.
Between tool changes, I home the machine and zero it, every time.
Screwed into spoilboard - the piece isn’t moving
Have the vacuum hose grounded
Using Vcarve pro and UGS to run the Gcode
seperate circuit for controller and router
I’m using a ramp plunge and generally go 1/8" each pass even though in theory I could do 1/4"
Wood is Walnut
Any ideas?? I’ve had issues with larger, more complex signs (stacked text) that I have given up on them. I am sooooo sick of making firewood, I love the possibilities of CNC and am ready to buy a much better machine, but this should be able to handle what I am asking - or is it???
Open to any and ALL suggestions - I’m about done with this machine in all honesty.
It looks like your machine is slipping on the belts. I found that the 1000x1000 machine is NoT repeatable because of this. I only got the results I was pursuing when I bought the XCarve Pro, which use ball screws instead of belts. You could try cleaning your belts of sawdust and debris.
Thanks mark - no saw dust in the belts or tracks. I even took a soft toothbrush to the V wheels to make sure on previous go around with tossing 20 dollar bills into the fire pit
A couple of things to offer. Walnut is a very hard wood, and you probably need to go slower. You don’t mention what your Feed Rate and Depth Per Pass are, but I think from what I am seeing is that it is too fast.
The other thing that I would like to note is that when you do a tool change, you should only zero your Z. This is obviously needed because the machine doesn’t know when the bit touches the wood, but do not zero your XY on a tool change. Change the bit, set Z zero, Home, and then go to XY zero as it was set at the start. I often drill a shallow hole at XY Zero so that I can line back up with that same spot with the next bit.
I think Mark is right in that the belts are slipping, but it is because your Feed Rate is too fast for the density of the walnut. The machine will just try to do the speed that it is told to, but the wood and grains will redirect the bit if you go too fast.
If it is any consolation, I have made a lot of fancy firewood in the process of learning that these machines are NOT smart. I need to be the smart one, and patience is my most valuable tool. I love that UGS will allow me to speed up or slow down the carve as I see what is happening. Slower is often better, and I can speed it up until I hear and see chatter, and then slow it down just a little.
Thanks Jordan - I think you’re right on the feed rates, plunge rate and DOC. I drew up a quick pocket in easel, selected walnut and 1/4" DC and then looked at what is in the tool db (I use IDC bits and use their tool DB) - I took a screen shot and looked at them side by side - I can slow it down to match the Easel spec’s - I work from home and can set a carve to run while I’m working so don’t need production type speeds - I just need accuracy and need to stop wasting wood.
One other thing I meant to ask - it seems like when ever I change a tool, while loosening or tightening, I end up moving the gantry from slightly to .5" - this is why I re-home and then do Z - if I move the gantry, even slightly, wouldn’t that throw off actual X & Y???
Best practices for tool changes and potential movement???
Yes, that is why you home after a bit change. I make a note of my XY position at zero so that I can find that position again, but if the machine gets turned off, those numbers won’t necessarily be the same. Another trick I do is to just drill a small mark at XY zero, and after a bit change I can home and go to work zero, the bit should line up with that mark.
I use a one-hand technique to tighten the collet, holding both wrenches with one hand and tighten using my fingers. I find it moves much less that way.
Two suggestions, one is to make sure your chassis is properly grounded to the building ground.( EMI) second is to change the dip switches in the controller so the motors lock stationary. This will keep the gantry from moving while changing bits. And as others have said you probably need a slower feed rate, especially if you haven’t upgraded your machine to bigger belts and motors. I did this a couple of years ago and haven’t regretted it. Good luck.
How do I lock the motors via dip switches to “stationary”? I kinda think this is 1/2 of my problem… Currently after every bit change, I re-home & zero just in case the head (gantry??) moves.
Bigger belts and motors?? I’ll but them but didn’t realize they were available or where - links please???
Thanks again - if I had the room or $$$ I would have upgraded by now.
The first picture shows the craziness of the path - the second picture is when I sent it to X=0 / Y=0 - note how far off the sensor the true zero on Y - didn’t look at X, but it may have been off too.
