Has anyone here used their X carve for this task? I now use a jig and router with a surfacing bit to do this.
I’m just wanting to level some pine slabs I make end tables out of.
This is something I have thought about as well.
The machine sets the bit in a position relative to the waste board. and that is where it will do everything in it’s power to remain. As the machine traverses across the work piece the thickness will probably vary and this could cause depth of cut issues.
As many here know, I have been working a job of engraving deck boards for a local restaurant. the tamarac boards start out as full dimension rough sawn 2x6’s and are split on a huge bandsaw from the “model T” era. (seriously,no exaggeration here ) The blade on this monstrosity has a tendancy to wander a good amount. this is fine for someting going into a planer for final dimensioning, but the restaurant wants the bandsawn surface on the deck so I need to be vigilant when doing the engraving as occaisionally, the bit really starts to dig in and put alot of load on my spindle.
The ohter issue you will need to deal with is getting the work piece level to where you want it in relation to the waste board. while you may level the top, it may not be parralel to the bottom when you are finished. Being meticulous in your setup wil have dividends in the finidshed product.
Please post pics of your results!
I thought about the top not being parallel with the bottom, and will probably just do both sides.
I’d like to just be able to set this up and let it go, freeing up the time I normally devote to levelling slabs, for other tasks. I’m wondering about bit size and feeds and speeds as well. I imagine there will be a learning curve.
I glued up two boards the other day for a project and went to plane it on my planner. I then realized it Wes too large to fit and thought WTF do I do now.
So I locked it down on the CNC got a 3/4 inch dado bit and took a little off the top with a pocket profile. Flipped it over and did the same thing to the other side to the final dimension.
Just for grins and giggles I put the calipers on it and it was more accurate than the planner all around
Now I have a new VERY LARGE planner in my shop.
gonna take a LONGGGGG time with that v bit…
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EXACTLY what I am wanting to do! THANKS! Any idea on feeds and speeds for a 1/2" surfacing bit?
For rough and irregular jobs like that, I use a particular type of carpet tape.
It’s a very thick tape, and will adhere to all the irregularities of rough cut lumber.
http://www.homedepot.com/p/Roberts-Indoor-Outdoor-3-in-x-15-ft-Double-Sided-Carpet-Tape-Roll-50-605-12/100645279
It peels off quite easy
Once one side is planed, you can use regular doubled sided tape.
wouldn’t using a planer be better and safer ?
I’m wanting to level slabs that are over 20" wide. My thickness planer only handles 13" stuff.
I understand completely - but honestly - why would you use up the life of your machine like that ? wouldn’t it be better to find someone ( cabinet shop ?) with an industrial planer who could do them quickly , rather than what you envision ? if each slab takes 6 -10 hours - I would think it would be like using a metal spatula to clean an ice rink , You could do it , but a zamboni is whats required .
I agree. Anytime I plane something, it only takes 30 minutes at most!
Most times it’s 10 minutes.
@JulesRosen A quote of 6-10 hours is quite extreme and unrealistic.
Using my CNC to plane rough cut lumber is quite easy and safe.
Update: A 3/4" router bit is what everyone is using.
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I am looking to plane rough sawn 1” thick tree rings. I have a 1” bit with a 1/4” shank. Any advice on the feed rate and such?