I’ve just spent a few hours escaping the Christmas thing in my shed. I’ve spent some sleeping time thinking about this for awhile. I wanted to be able to adjust the V-wheels without using the eccentric nuts. They were driving me nuts! so I came up with a simple solution at least in the testing stage. Comprised of two small steel angles with the 5mm button screws through the v-wheels extending through, and replacing the eccentric nut on the adjustable wheel with a normal nut and washer, I placed a 3 1/2 in 3/16 threaded rod through both angles (can use a bolt if you can find one long enough). On the non-adjustable side I placed put on a lock nut. On the adjustable side I placed a 5/16 compression spring with a wing nut to pull the wheel toward the maker slide. Once adjusted to the proper tension Just lock the nut on the wheel screw. I’m planning on doing a few test runs as soon as I get off this computer to see if it stays in adjustment. I’ll keep you posted.
Very interesting, my brains needs more time to process this idea !
Cool solution, looking forward to your results.
I can’t wait to see how it works, that’s a great idea!
will be watching the results. this seems like it could be a much more reliable, repeatable, and measurable way to do this.
The initial test (running along the x axis) was a Success! One small adjustment of the wingnut and the wheel engages as it should. The real test will be in the cutting.
main thing i can see possibly being an issue will be vibration. If that is an issue, nyloc nut or loctite (blue) might solve that.
I will be replacing wingnut with nyloc nut, thanks
Replacing the eccentric nuts with eccentric spacers and nyloc nuts seems to have worked for me although I must admit that I haven’t done a great deal of carving so far.
The spacer/nyloc nut option might stop the v-wheels loosening but you still have the problem of getting the tension just right.
I think this tensioning method along with lock nuts might be the go
doesn’t that leave room to bounce?
I’d never run my machine like that. If it won’t run within specs, something is wrong. Leaving a little room to bounce with a spring is not a solution.
You may be right…but I won’t know till I do some actual cutting. Also just trying one wheel at a time. Will try to replace all four x axis wheels tomorrow after the scotch wears off. Merry Christmas…
a cnc machine needs to have precision, not ways to away from it.
I’d advise you to to steer away from this route. The machine runs perfect and true when the current design is fine tuned.
Thanks for posting this. Nice simple mod. Will give this a try in the next couple of days. Did you use 1 1/2" spring?
guys, guys, guys. don’t do this to your machines
It’s not free floating I thought it was just finding the correct tension and then locking it in
this mod is horrible advice. stay clear.
Thats exactly right …once you have adjusted the tension you lock it in with a nyloc nut against a washer. But I do agree with JDM that you probably shouldn’t try it until I finish testing it. At least not on anything valuable at this point.
If your machine doesn’t run with the current design, something else is wrong. You don’t want any play between idlers. A spring in between is going to make it worse.