Waste Board Support and Replacement

Hey team -

Just got a well used 2020-ish 750x750 xvarve for my garage workshop. Original waste board was in very rough shape - but the sides were seemingly level and flat. I slapped a new piece of MDF on top of that, screwed it down, and surfaced it.

I think the underlying wasteboard is too eroded and the new mdf is sagging in spots.

Based on some searches here, I think my plan is to get new 1000mm 2020 from the amazon (is that long enough?) to add stiffness and support under the whole work area. Then, plan to put mdf on top of that - maybe a 1/2" thick piece? Then do a t-slot with melamine slats on top of that.

Does that sound reasonable? What’s the best way to attach the mdf to the extrusion? Is there a jig or specific measurements or bit suggestions to cut the little t slot looking things that the original stock board is attached with now?

Thanks in advance for any advice and guidance you can provide!

l built a dedicated bench for the machine out of lumber with a 3/4 inch plywood top, screwed to the wood supports with well countersunk screws, (some construction adhesive would not go amiss) I afixed the cnc to the plywood and then used the cnc to flatten the top of the plywood. Then cut a number of 3/4" mdf slats around 5" wide to become the wasteboard, I screwed my first t track starting at the outer edge of the cutting area then screwed the first mdf slat against the t track so that the edge and front were at x 0 and y 0, then screwed down another t track and slat repeating until the cutting area was filled in, with the last t track at the outside edge of the work area. Then flattened this again which only took 0.5mm depth of cut.
Before I screwed down the mdf slats I cut pockets to take t nuts on the underside (replacing the threaded inserts on the original board). have not cut dog holes yet but may in the future. So far have been very pleased with the results.
Would like to have drilled clearance for long hold down bolts in the plywood under the tnuts so that the bolts would not try to lift the spoilboard if over length.
Also would not use threaded inserts again because they lift the mdf when being installed and or used. Also on the original spoilboard I was too clever and screwed the t track into 1/2" deep slots cut into the mdf thinking that these would hold down the spoilboard, but they tended to lift the spoilboard in use. There are lots of variations possible, I am sure there are better ways than mine but so far am pretty much happy with my new spoilboard.
To afix any sheet goods to extrusions you could use through bolts or metal screws (drywall screws would work).
Hope this helps.

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