What’s the easiest way to swap out your waist board

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What’s the easiest way to swap out your waist board I have to change out my waist board I was wondering if anybody’s done this before and has an easy way to do it

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What exactly is the question. It’s easy to remove, just awkward as hell, due to size. What isn’t working for you?

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Nothing to it.
Just unscrew it and put in your new one.

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14 bolts holding it down, remove those and take the board off. I took mine off and replaced it yesterday. The inserts stayed in place so I was able to bolt it right back down. I used the old board as a pattern and drilled the new one. What are you replacing the waste board with?

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damn, you are REALLY confident you aren’t going to accidentally mill into the table through your waste material! the sign right above the spindle is my entire life in one sign!

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The one about the good woman wanted? :joy:

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haha, oh god did she just hear me? anyway, no the woodworking one. It applies equally well to my work as a doctor:

1/3 planning, 1/3 execution and 1/3 figuring out how to mask the side effects of the treatment I just gave…

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I went with the ATP5 fixture plate to ensure flatness and tram.
The whole machine is within .005"
No, I’m not really confident that I wont cut into the bed, so I always use a sacrificial piece of hardboard or MDF under my work.

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Jan how is the threaded holes in your waste board working out for you. I just installed a piece of aluminum last night and I’m trying to figure out what to do next, T-Tracks or threaded holes.
Thanks
Russell

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Thanks

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The tapped holes worked out perfectly.
I changes the layout and pout them in 1" centers.
There are 576 hoes so I’m always within reach for a clamp.

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576!!! :flushed:That’s a lot of hoes. I have been screwing most of my projects down to my sacrificial waste board but that just caused problems with the board having bumps in it because of the holes. If I were to drill and tap 144 holes in the 1/4" aluminum, how many drill bits and taps do you think I would need? When I drilled the 14 holes to mount it to the frame I used a Milwaukee drill bit and it was dull when I got through. Maybe I need to buy better bits.
Thanks for your reply
Russell

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1 drill and 1 tap.
Don’t forget to chamfer the holes before you tap them…

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I meant how many do you think I will go through? Maybe 5?
I always chamfer after I tapped…I guess I have been doing it wrong

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You’re drilling and tapping aluminum.
You should only need 1 drill and 1 tap.
Always chamfer your holes before you tap them.
That’s what creates the lead in for the screws.
You can use some WD40 for lubricant.

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I love having a worksurface with a grid of tapped holes. It’s so versatile & accurate to remove & remount fixtures while maintaining repeatability.

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Yes. What’s meant in the realm of x-carve is WASTEBOARD, not waistboard. Seems to be a commonly accepted mis-use of the word.

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The X-carve comes with a MDF “bed”.
And as such, will move with the changes in humidity.
Some people consider this the “Waste board”.
I don’t.
This is the "bed’ of your machine.
The bed of your machine should always be flat and square to the X, Y, Z axis.
Even when I ran the machine with the original MDF “bed”, I always used a sacrificial “waste board” under the project that I was cutting.
I have since installed an aluminum fixture plate quality (ATP5) “bed” to my machine. (to avoid movement inherent in the MDF)
But I will always use a sacrificial “waste board” under my projects.

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What is the thickness of your ATP5 bed?

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.375"