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What’s the easiest way to swap out your waist board

What’s the easiest way to swap out your waist board I have to change out my waist board I was wondering if anybody’s done this before and has an easy way to do it

What exactly is the question. It’s easy to remove, just awkward as hell, due to size. What isn’t working for you?

Nothing to it.
Just unscrew it and put in your new one.

14 bolts holding it down, remove those and take the board off. I took mine off and replaced it yesterday. The inserts stayed in place so I was able to bolt it right back down. I used the old board as a pattern and drilled the new one. What are you replacing the waste board with?

damn, you are REALLY confident you aren’t going to accidentally mill into the table through your waste material! the sign right above the spindle is my entire life in one sign!

The one about the good woman wanted? :joy:

haha, oh god did she just hear me? anyway, no the woodworking one. It applies equally well to my work as a doctor:

1/3 planning, 1/3 execution and 1/3 figuring out how to mask the side effects of the treatment I just gave…

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I went with the ATP5 fixture plate to ensure flatness and tram.
The whole machine is within .005"
No, I’m not really confident that I wont cut into the bed, so I always use a sacrificial piece of hardboard or MDF under my work.

Jan how is the threaded holes in your waste board working out for you. I just installed a piece of aluminum last night and I’m trying to figure out what to do next, T-Tracks or threaded holes.
Thanks
Russell

Thanks

The tapped holes worked out perfectly.
I changes the layout and pout them in 1" centers.
There are 576 hoes so I’m always within reach for a clamp.

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576!!! :flushed:That’s a lot of hoes. I have been screwing most of my projects down to my sacrificial waste board but that just caused problems with the board having bumps in it because of the holes. If I were to drill and tap 144 holes in the 1/4" aluminum, how many drill bits and taps do you think I would need? When I drilled the 14 holes to mount it to the frame I used a Milwaukee drill bit and it was dull when I got through. Maybe I need to buy better bits.
Thanks for your reply
Russell

1 drill and 1 tap.
Don’t forget to chamfer the holes before you tap them…

I meant how many do you think I will go through? Maybe 5?
I always chamfer after I tapped…I guess I have been doing it wrong

You’re drilling and tapping aluminum.
You should only need 1 drill and 1 tap.
Always chamfer your holes before you tap them.
That’s what creates the lead in for the screws.
You can use some WD40 for lubricant.

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I love having a worksurface with a grid of tapped holes. It’s so versatile & accurate to remove & remount fixtures while maintaining repeatability.

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I am not confirm your question, The waist board is that temporary planking in the waist and especially in the gangway of a ship to protect against seas. It is right or not ?

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Yes. What’s meant in the realm of x-carve is WASTEBOARD, not waistboard. Seems to be a commonly accepted mis-use of the word.

The X-carve comes with a MDF “bed”.
And as such, will move with the changes in humidity.
Some people consider this the “Waste board”.
I don’t.
This is the "bed’ of your machine.
The bed of your machine should always be flat and square to the X, Y, Z axis.
Even when I ran the machine with the original MDF “bed”, I always used a sacrificial “waste board” under the project that I was cutting.
I have since installed an aluminum fixture plate quality (ATP5) “bed” to my machine. (to avoid movement inherent in the MDF)
But I will always use a sacrificial “waste board” under my projects.

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What is the thickness of your ATP5 bed?