Ok so I bought my x-carve in 2018. I remember when I wired it as it is shown to wire it there was a little update to a few things to do with X-Controller and wiring of the Y1AXIS.
In the first stock photo it’s how to wire the X-Controller.
Next two photos, how mine is wired and instructions when I bought the TBD screw drive and z super drive to change the Microswitches inside the xcontroller.
As you see from my wiring on Y1Axis the “red and White” are reversed. My original basic x-carve worked great with this set up.
So I thought…Hmm. let me put the wires back to the way the stock set up was supposed to be.
Well when I press to send Y + (to the back of spoil board) the left side moved only. The right side did NOT MOVE. Glad I had it moving minimal!
Does everyone have the Y1 wires “white/red” or “red/white”.
And what about the Microstepping inside the x-controller? Is it like the photo I’m posting that TBD sent me in 2019?
I’m just looking at everything that might be the cause of why I cannot get this to work properly. EVER since I upgraded it in 2019.
Thank you, Thank you!
@MidgeDetro,
The wiring should be perfectly fine since we have established in your other thread that the machine is moving correctly now.
You should follow the recommended changes for the stepper drivers unless someone comes along who has this upgrade and states otherwise.
The wires being backward for the two different motors on the Y-Axis for the original X-Carve is because the two motors face in opposite directions but need to drive the same rotationally. Swapping the two wires on a four-wire stepper motor accomplishes this task.
Since you have the TBD screw drive upgrade, both Y-Axis motors should be spinning in the same direction as they are mounted identically and drive similar screws. The wiring should be as the TBD directions state…
If you have not completed all of the physical changes that were listed by Luke at TBD as well as completing the calibration that we have been discussing in the other thread, I would make the changes and see where you end up.
The only thing I would change is Dip Switch 4. I normally tell people to switch that off, since having it on allows the hardware to decrease holding current while sitting idle. This is more of an issue with belts than screw drives, but I have seen a Z-Axis slowly (and I mean very slowly) fall downward under its own weight just sitting there idle.
{:0)
Brandon R. Parker
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Thank you!
I will do all of what you and Martin have suggested starting with putting it all back to Luke’s settings and calibrate calibrate calibrate .
Hopefully it all works… if not maybe next time you’re in your shop you can let me know and we can do a Google meet.
