That does sound nice, but I do use easel a lot for its easy interface and ability to send g-code. I will have to weigh that into consideration however.
Also, I live in Nashville 
Understood. If you ever wanted to look at the controller and get a feel for it before making a choice… You are welcome to drop by and see the system on the XC and try out the software if you would like to.
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Can you provide a link to the unit that you are using?
Sure! I use both their MK3 (on the XC and my larger ball screw mill) and the MK3/4 on the Shapeoko 2. I run them with Leadshine DM442 and DM432C digital stepper drivers. Here is the link: http://www.planet-cnc.com/index.php?page=features
Thank you.
If I understand correctly, the planetcnc products run on full G-code similar to a Fanuc system? Unlike GRBL and LinuxCNC which run on a modified, more simplistic version of G-code that does not have the full capabilities of the larger machines.
Please correct me if I am wrong, I am still trying to fully wrap my head around a CNC course that I attended. The course had the full fledge G-codes including can cycles and other functions not available with GRBL.
Yes the controllers run the full Gcode and not the limited GRBL Gcode that the stock controller runs. But unlike MACH3 which has a ton of plug ins and cycles for doing things without CAM. The Planet CNC controller is geared towards Gcode from a CAM program and not really meant for running small can cycles and such from the controller software. Some see that as a limiting factor, but for me since everything I do starts in CAD and runs through CAM, it works perfectly and I am not having to pay or deal with can cycles and such which I never use. Things like digital probing and the like are built in once you attach a digital probe. Unlike in MACH3 where there is a ton of settings to change and special code to run. That sort of thing just WORKS on the Planet CNC controller right out of the box once the probe is hooked up.
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I used to set my x carve to 6" per min and .012 depth, and let it cut out 10 smaller parts, and the bit burned up, literally! I got a new one that is rated for steel and aluminum, but now I am paranoid that the bit will get hot and dull again. Keeping the chips clear is fine, but how do you guys cool the bit? I am using ATF and WD40, but then the chips clump together…
How do you keep from burning through bits!?!
Going too slow can be as bad a going too fast. When you are in the right speed zone the chips will help to carry away some of the heat with them. So getting nice sized chips helps. In wood this is the “dust” vs “chips” thing you may have seen people talk about.
Also when going too slow the bit can keep moving over the same spot on the material after it has been cut. This is called rubbing and it can build up a TONE of heat very fast. This is what causes burning or scorching when cutting wood. The cutting edges speed is a combo of both the feed and rpm. Which is why when working with wood turning down your RPM is the easiest way to adjust for any charing mid cut.
For aluminum GWizard recommends a feed rate of 35 inches per min for a 1/4" endmill when going at 18,000rpm (#3 on the dewalt) if that is too aggressive a cut try reducing the depth of cut rather than the speed. (I have been running mine at .13mm which is around .005 inches)
If you search the board for “aluminum” you can see other posts about people’s aluminum feeds and speeds and see what may work for you.
Some people are using mist coolers or just compressed air to blow aluminum chips away and cool the cut. I am planing on setting one up myself. Gantry Upgrade to C-Beam
Thanks for the response. I will reduce the cut depth and increase the speed of the cut and see if that helps!