Inventables Community Forum

X carve upgrade to .8KW water cooled spindle W closed loop cooling

I have not tried to run them side by side in the same cable chain. I plan to run a second cable chain beside the main one to handle the spindle and the water lines. Having a 3D printer allows me to print out a bigger sized chain and to make custom attachment points for the dual chains. This is on my list for CAD work tonight as a matter of fact. I was lucky enough to have bought my spindle and VFD from a US seller and the bonus is that I got a nice full manual in ENGLISH and it is very well written from what I have seen so far. Going over settings tonight and just about have everything set up the way I want. Should have the built in relay running the coolant pump shortly.

As a point of fact though you really do want to try and find a way to put them in a cable chain of some sort as they need protection from kinking and abrasion. Kinking the water supply off during a job would fry you spindle and I do not even want to think about the idea of the wire somehow being nicked or abraded and shorting. Unlikely I know, but not something I wish to risk. Though I used a 14/4 SJOOW cable for the VFD to spindle run so I have few worries about it wearing out.

I made a custom drag chain for my Laser cutter out of laser cut acrylic that carries the water cooling tubes. No problems encountered, you just have to make sure that curves during motion have a radius a good bit above the point where the tubes will naturally kink.

ooooo my mistake i missread the post about being or not being g1/4

You guys who have set up these VFD spindles before. Do you use a breaking resistor? Or is that unnecessary at these power levels (800W)? Did you wire a ground line to the spindle, or just U, V, and W? Did you need to make any programming changes to the VFD?

I have not installed the resistor yet, but I am thinking about it. I ran the full 4 wires to the spindle, ground and all. I did make a few changes to the programming on my VFD so I could use the built in pot and the relay inside for the water pump. I am running out tot he airport right now so I am not able to check those settings. But I can give you the link to the manual I got with mine which is super easy to read and makes sense for once. Who ever wrote it had a very firm grasp of English. With this you should be able to get it all set up and running. If not hit me up after the 13th and I can make some notes on mine and send them your way.

This is also where I bought my VFD and Spindle from. Prices were just as good as Ebay over all and it shipped way faster. I had it in my hands in 3 days!
http://www.automationtechnologiesinc.com/products-page/cnc-spindle

I’m a little confused on these VFD Spindles. It seems you can buy an 800w spindle easily, but I have yet to see a 800w inverter? Can someone clarify how you would set this up?

1.5KW VFD Inverter would power the 800W (0.8KW) Spindle after a few settings changes.

You can just use a 1.5 KW inverter. My spindle (the 110v model) came with a 110v 1.5KW inverter. I just have some extra capacity.

Cool thanks, this is what I thought must be happening but didn’t want to assume!

Most of the time you set them up with a little over head and just adjust for the motor settings. I use the 1.5 on my 800w and the 2.2 on my 1.5kw spindles and they work great.

About to finally pull the trigger on an 0.8kW spindle but have been stuck on if I should get an 110V or 220V version. I originally went with a 220V 1.5kW until I found out its too heavy, so now wondering if its still worth running 220V out to the garage or just sticking with 110V. Anyone found any differences in power or performance between the two?

So I got my new 800W water cooled spindle working last night (on the bench).

I set up the thermaltake all in one cooling setup (pump, reservoir, and radiator). I did remove the 3/8 ID connectors on the radiator, and replaced them with brass 1/4 ID connectors. I used teflon tape to get a good seal. So far (after a bit of tightening) it doesn’t appear to leak. I used some 1/4 ID 5/16 OD tubing from mcmaster that fits the spindle perfectly.

On the VFD, I made the mistake of doing a factory reset before programming it. It turns out that there isn’t really a 110V model, and this one is a 220V model with some settings changed. I didn’t know that. So I set the frequency (max and base), and the motor settings like revs and max current, and fired it up. It spun up, made some interesting noises, and shut down with an overload fault. Then I noticed the voltage was set to 220 (which seemed odd that it would overload, if the source is only 110), but I set the max voltage and the motor voltage to 110, and now it spins, and is very quiet. According to the VFD, when running with no load, it is drawing about .3 Amps.

I’m a little worried that there may be some other settings that I messed up by doing the factory reset, so I tried emailing the seller.

Now the problem is to get the mount working. The cast aluminum mount fits the motor perfectly, but is too wide to mount on the x-carve z plate. The Dewalt 611 mount is 2mm too wide. I’m not sure how I would shim it.

110V is SLIGHTLY less powerful overall but I doubt you would notice on a belt driven mill as belt stretch would become a bigger factor before lack of spindle power would.

Chris shoot me a message and i can send you the good English manual i have. It sounds like have some major settings wrong. The motors are all 220v. The vfd steps the voltage up to 220 for the motor. Message me and I will try to get you all set up. The manual i have is well written by someone who speaks great english. All the settings are spelled out in detail in it. Please note I am shooting in Chicago until Monday so I am limited to cell phone postings until I hit the hotel late each night.

In this case it is a genuine 110V motor. I don’t have a step up transformer on the VFD. I have the 7A 110V motor from this list.

Cool. Never seen the 110 only motors. Every spindle I have worked with was 220v. I will be interested to see how it handles milling things like aluminum. Though anything is a big upgrade over the stock spindle. Looking forward to seeing how this one works for you.

So after a day sitting on my bench with the cooling hooked up, I noticed my system leaking when I got home from work. Not a lot, just a few drops, but clearly leaking. So I drained out the coolant, and took apart the connectors on the motor, and look at hose ends

So it appears that I over tightened these connectors. This hose is actually pretty soft, so over torquing the connectors was probably pretty easy. I think I might also add some teflon tape to the screw connectors on this fitting next time, that might help add some additional waterproofing.

So I still can’t get this tubing to stop leaking on the motor end. So its time to try some different tubings. I ordered some firmer tubing, and some latex tubing in the same size to try those out.

Has anyone replaced the connectors on the motor? I’m wondering if a barb connector would work better than a compression fitting.

When I asked the seller on the best size tubing, he recommended 5mm ID and I ordered this one.

Fitment on the spindle was real snug and I just hand tightened the compression nut. Never had a leak.

Interesting. That is a lot smaller on the inside than the 1/4inch (6.125mm) tubing I am using.

Getting fittings to get that onto some kind of NTP fitting to fit my radiator/pump system would be difficult.