Cutting out a detailed logo an wanted some advice!

Hey guys I wanted to cut out a logo for one of my favorites game out of MDF and place it with LED in my room. Problem is the logo is too detailed. I’m very knew to CNC and been reading up for around 2-3 days now. When I upload my image into easel it tells me even with 1/16in bits its not going to work because of the detail. Is there any other option besides just reediting the picture. I will have the image uploaded for more information.

http://imgh.us/RL.svg

Cutting a detailed vector image will require a vbit. A 30 degree vbit should not have any problem with it. You will either need to use a software program like Vcarve or F-Engrave that knows how to use a vbit or you can “trick” Easel by just telling it you are using a .003 inch diameter bit and keep your depth of cut shallow.

But a v bit wouldn’t actually go all the way through my board would it? I really wanted to put LED in the cutout and the car would have a glow to it. So basically cut out all the black in the picture that I posted. I hope I have explained myself if not I’m sorry!

would something like this work since I have a 1/8in collet.
https://www.inventables.com/technologies/solid-carbide-upcut-fish-tail-spiral-bits

looks like it would do the detail and be accurate enough?

A vbit can cut all the way through, but that is usually not want you want to happen

Since you have some large areas to remove and some very small areas, I would suggest that you set it up as two projects. For the first project just create your toolpaths for the small areas and use a small diameter bit like the 1/32 inch. But be sure to keep your feedrate and depth of cut very low or you will instantly break that small bit.

Then create a second project where you create the toolpaths for the larger areas and use a larger bit Like a .125 inch diameter bit (or even a .25 if it will fit).

So I have been researching the 1/32 bit for the Dewalt and I haven’t found any collets for that. Does that fishtail I linked up there work since its 1/32 but shank of 1/8? Or is there other places you can recommend? Thank you so much by the way for all the help!

Yes the inventables 1/32 inch bit has a 1/8 inch shank. You can either purchase a 1/8 inch collet for the Dewalt or use a 1/8 to 1/4 inch adapter

Just one more question AllenMassey!

So if all my work is done in MDF and I am cutting out more logos for other games that I like and for friends. I actually already cut one http://imgur.com/UzaxG6Y. Which bits do you think I would need. I am someone extremely new to cnc and I just want a good quality cut with nice edges and accuracy. I can obviously sand itdown and split up the cuts into multiple projects if I need to. I need a good recommendation for a 1/4, a 1/8, 1/16, and a 1/32. I am just starting to learn about different bits. From what I know a 2 flute is a good starting spot, I will get an upcut just to make it easier and clean out the debris. Could you help me out?

Sounds like you doing great already! 2 flute spiral up cut are great to have, plus get a few down cut bits also since they leave the top edge much cleaner.

Plus I really recommend you get a few vbits (30, 60 and 90 degree) if you want to carving detailed vector images.

If you start doing any 3D (or 2.5D) carving you will also need ball nose bits.

If you have not already purchased collets for your Dewalt you can save money when buying bit if you purchase metric sizes from ebay. I have a 4mm and 6mm collet and they let me use the really inexpensive metric bits from China. I have had very good success with those bits, just be sure to measure the diameter and use the measured diameter in your CAM software.

The Elaire Corp site is a great place to purchase collets for the Dewalt, just be sure you order the ones for “Dewalt Style Palm Router Collets”

http://www.elairecorp.com/dewaltroutercollets.html#dwcross

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could you pm me a link of a reputable metric bit seller from china. if you had good experience with him.

Here are the people I have purchased from on eBay

http://www.ebay.com/usr/carbidechiu?_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2754
http://www.ebay.com/usr/efreeship?_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2754


Drillman also is a great source for bits
http://www.ebay.com/usr/drillman1?_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2754

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what are the measurements of the image

16inx16 inch and 30x30in

Looks like for the 16x16 a 1/16 bit with the cut on the outside of the outline shows no non cut areas.
And a 1/4in bit with cuts on the inside of the line will work for a 30x30.
As for bits i have had the best luck with cheap 1/4 shank router bits I use them for soft metal and wood and most are super easy to resharpen by hand with a stone. And as for speeds and feeds it will depend on machine mods and bits used.

The parts I noticed that easel would have trouble with was the details inside the car. Those little black squares. I actually just loaded my svg and it instantly said the size of this router bit is too big

Also another question Shane, I was gonna go with a 2 flute spiral upcut and get it in a 1/4 1/8 and 1/16. But a friend told me the single straight flute was nice with mdf and gave a nicer finish. Any advice from your experience?

Upcut bits tend to not leave a good finish on mdf I would use a straight flute or a down cut bit. A few things you can try with your image one being change the bit size in easel to one that says will work then go with the smallest bit you have this has worked on many occasions or you can scale the image up till it works with what you have. And one other thing i have tried is using a narrow vbit and enter the bit size as .002 and cut on path this has worked for me on a few occasions and gives a different look just remember when unsure try it on scrap to see what works.

If your material is going to be pretty large and unsupported in the middle, I would suggest going with a downcut bit. The upcut bits work okay, but tend to leave a ragged top and will actually lift the material up if it’s not supported well, especially large materials. It’s kind of like a fast-acting screw, one good bite and you’ve either cut too deep, or even worse, your material lifted up (if it was only edge clamped or poorly taped down) and is spinning around on the bit.

I’ve found that straight flute bits have to take shallow cuts, but can go fast through the material as compared to upcut bits, which can go deep but slow. No real time saved with either one. Downcut bits give good clean top edges and push the material into the wasteboard, preventing the flying material effect.

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Also, I found that once you go below 1/8", the negative side effects of up spiral bits are negligible. 1/16" up spirals leave a nice finished edge and don’t pull up your materials.

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Thank you guys so much for all the helpful replies. I read in the articles about drillman 1 so I placed an order from him for several bits. I also for the time being went and grabbed some from this amazon link so I can have them by tomorrow for some of my other logo projects.

Finally had a side question. If I started with .25" MDF and wanted easel to take a part of my design and not only outline it but also pocket it so in the end it was .18" thick is that something that it could do or would it take more passes?

You could absolutely use pockets to reduce the thickness of the project. The downside is that it would take a while using a small bit, you’d probably want to do that with a 1/4" or larger bit just to speed it up.

If you do use a pocket to reduce the material height, you’d want to do it before cutting the outline so that you have the clamps holding onto it as long as possible. If you went the other way, you’d probably want to put a LOT of double-sided tape on to hold it down.